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Appliance Tech\'s Private Board > Ask a Pro About your Appliance > Archive through August 11, 2009 > F&P Dishdrawer >
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Next message jakespeed (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, December 15, 2003 - 7:23 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have an F1 alarm. I know it relates to flooding, but how do I get into it to have a look? Can I download the service manual anywhere?
Next message Bossman (Bossman)   posted on Monday, December 15, 2003 - 8:13 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Please tell us the complete model number. This will help us, help you. It's possible that you have put an article that is to large in the unit and it's keeping the lid ajar. You will have to uninstall the lowest drawer and clean up the water. This water raises a float on the 602's and creates a current path for the 603's. this is what causes the fault code. In any case, something is getting water in the base and causing a flood code. This could also be caused by a defective lower controller if only the lower drawer on a double unit is giving you the fault code. These units are very unique and are not typical of any other unit out there. Here is a link that might help. http://www.fisherpaykel.com/service/ Good Luck.
Next message Paul M Hlavate (Paulh)   posted on Friday, January 02, 2004 - 3:42 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Just curious Bossman. I just installed a 603SS on Christmas and it died F-1 the day before New Years. Have a defective upper drawer l/s lid motor? Can see it fail when in diagnostics. Anyway called the local FP guy and he replaced it today. How does that current path work?? Paul H
Next message Bossman (Bossman)   posted on Sunday, January 04, 2004 - 2:56 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Paul, Don't know exactly what your asking, but will answer with what I think your asking. There is a "mains board" in the base of the machine. This is a small board that the main wiring from the supply cord goes to. It has another function. It has a small sensor circuit board attached to it and senses if there is any water in the base of the lower cabinet. When this happens you will get an F1 condition or "Fl"ood condition. This can happen very easily if a large item is placed in the unit and wont allow the lid to close all the way. It seems as though you found the mini manual in the base of the unit behind the lower drawer. Be careful when running thru diagnostics. If you leave the unit in the heat mode, you will torch the thermal on the heater plate and have to replace it. Search Roys site. The info on the 603 is there.
Next message Paul M Hlavate (Paulh)   posted on Sunday, January 04, 2004 - 3:53 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thanks, I saw the board but was looking for something similar to the Bosch. I had the FP tech on the line while running the diagnostics. He came the next day and replaced that l/s lid motor. Said FP is making him rich. Paul H
Next message Bossman (Bossman)   posted on Tuesday, January 06, 2004 - 12:06 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Glad to help.
Next message Bossman (Bossman)   posted on Tuesday, January 06, 2004 - 12:09 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Prior model DD602 has the styrofoam float. Would be located more towards the front of the machine than placement of the control board of the 603.
Next message johnpapas (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2004 - 7:12 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Can anyone tell me what the error codes on the F&P Dishdrawer are.
I currently have an F4 error and before I contact F&P I would like to have some idea of what is wrong does this error relate to heating?

Thanking you in advance

John Papas
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2004 - 8:06 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
we need a model and serial Number to help.
Next message Jerry (Servsr)   posted on Wednesday, May 05, 2004 - 12:44 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
John,
The F&P Dishdrawer manual I have covers models DD602,DD602I,DS602 and DS602I. According to the fault code list, an "F-4" or "--#--" on LED display indicates: "No temperature increase has been recorded when the element is on". Possible Causes: "Element not connected or open. Temperature sensor or electronics ADC has failed".
Hope this helps ya,
Jerry
Next message johnpapas (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Wednesday, May 05, 2004 - 1:47 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thank you very much for the advice I shall have a look at the electronics and the heater element.

Thaking you all

John
Next message Gav. Abfalter (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Friday, June 18, 2004 - 8:47 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi,

Got a very similar problem (I think) to Paul in this thread. Model is DD601 the first dual drawer I think.
Upper drawer is leaking through the seal. I can hear the motor ticking over when the drawer starts up so I don't think that is the problem, the leak starts to come after a few minutes of operation so I guess there is a slow leak in the seal system.
What is the most likely point of failure??? The seal itself, the release valve, or the motor????
Does the seal system have a feedback loop, i.e. should the seal be topped up if say the pressure inside drops below a certain threshold, or is the motor simply switched on for a certain period and that's it????
Next message Gav. Abfalter (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Saturday, June 19, 2004 - 4:00 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
After swapping over the motor and valve between the top and bottom drawers the problem remains so I'm thinking it must be a the lid seal not holding the air pressure. The air feeder lines look in reasonable condition so I'm struggling to think of the reason for why the seal won't hold the pressure.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Next message Bossman (Bossman)   posted on Saturday, June 19, 2004 - 8:41 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
This must be a 602 model if it has a "blow up" seal. It is probable the seal has a hole in it. You must remove the seal and put it under pressure. Immerse it in water and see if any bubbles comes out of it. The seal can also be replaced as a complete lid assm.
Next message Gav. Abfalter (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Saturday, June 19, 2004 - 8:41 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thanks for the advice Bossman. Didn't think of submersing it.
Just to check your comments. Can the seal be removed from the lid assm or does the complete lid assm need to be replaced??? I suspect it is the latter I can't see how you can remove the seal from the lid.
Thanks again
Next message Gav. Abfalter (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Saturday, June 19, 2004 - 9:03 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Sorry, one more thing. I obviously need to remove the drawer assembly to then remove the lid assm. Any advice on how to release the door from the sliding rails would be appreciated as well.
Next message Bossman (Bossman)   posted on Monday, June 21, 2004 - 8:16 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Open the drawer. On both sides of the drawer there are plugs that needs removed with needle nose pliers. These plugs have a pin attached to it that holds the drawer in place. After you do this, the drawer should come out. The lid is held in place by retaining tabs. Push a putty knife in between the cabinet and the top. This will release the lid assm. Be careful doing this. With the large volume of plastic used in the unit, things break very easy if you aren't careful.
Next message Gav. Abfalter (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Saturday, July 10, 2004 - 9:32 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
The seal it was, big enough hole to see enough water coming out to flood the machine. There was a fair amount of water through the air pump and exhaust valve but they seem to be holding up pretty well.

In addition the replacement seal from F&P was a bit weird. It had feeder holes at either end (as opposed to the original which was sealed at one end) so I had to fashion a plug to seal one end (a spare garden hose plug did the trick).

Thanks very much for your helps.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Monday, July 12, 2004 - 8:26 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Your welcome, glad we could help.
Next message Bossman (Bossman)   posted on Sunday, July 18, 2004 - 12:38 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Glad to get you up and running. That's what Roy's site is for.
Next message Michael MacGinty (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Thursday, January 06, 2005 - 10:20 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
In relation to Jakespeed "I have an F1 alarm. I know it relates to flooding, but how do I get into it to have a look? Can I download the service manual anywhere?"

We had the same F1 problem today and the F&P PDFs would not download, from their website !!!

We removed the racks, water sprayer and filter, soaked up any water in the filter hole and then, having pulled the machine out of the kitchen unit, we tilted the machine 45 degrees up on 2 feet towards the front and then did the same towards the back, which drained off the flooded water and after 30 mins the machine work just fine.
It was our fault for stacking too high and not allowing the cover to operate efficiently, but now it is a'happy' and tidy house again. Hope this helps someone, if too late for Jakespeed !
Next message John N (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Saturday, February 26, 2005 - 11:21 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a model DD601.
Both drawers are giving F4's. Both have just
started to do it. The water is not getting heated.
I thought both drawers are totally independant.
Is a common component in the heating circuit like common return that may have corroded or come loose?
Has anyone seen this before or got a fix?
Next message Pegi Kelly (Pegi_at_sams)   posted on Monday, February 28, 2005 - 11:49 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Looks like the F4 code points to 1: bad heater/connector or 2: controller.
Next message Bossman (Bossman)   posted on Tuesday, March 01, 2005 - 10:49 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Pegi's probably right. I would bet controller.
Next message John N (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Saturday, April 16, 2005 - 7:55 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Just to let you know....
As I do not have a manual I took the machine apart and traced the wiring. A return wire comes back off each drawers heating element and bonds to the chassis via lugs at the bottom of the rear service panel. These were corroded. I cleaned them up and now both drawers have been heating water fine for the last couple of months.
Next message harold william fugate (Haroldservice)   posted on Saturday, April 16, 2005 - 8:07 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
the manual is attached to the back behind the bottom drawer
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Saturday, April 16, 2005 - 8:29 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
John, thanks for the follow up
Next message Michelle (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, September 04, 2006 - 3:46 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi! I have been researching fault codes for the last few days. Bought a house with the F&P dish drawers DD602. We have been here a yr and are now having trouble with the lower drawer not draining. 1/2 way into the cycle a U3 fault code came up. I took everything out and checked for debris, and found nothing. Any ideas?
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Monday, September 04, 2006 - 11:43 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
U3 > Blocked Drain or HP/LP setting.
Since it is not draining is a drain error.
1st take the rotor out (rotor is the impeller under the wash arm, It comes out by rotating the complete rotor outer ring after removing the screen. Look at the vains on the bottom if there worn it wont drain. also make sure the hole in the bottom frontt where the rotor fites is clear all the way to the front where the filter is.
(might want to swap top and bottom rotors for testing.
If the rotor is ok. your drain line is plugged somewhere from housing to the house drain. If it is at the house it would be better to call somebody that knows FP products as it can get very complicated if you dont know what your doing.
Next message Ivan Cooke (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, August 05, 2007 - 9:33 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a F+P DD601v2 which the top drawer display goes red and shows HE. Is the top drawer removed simply by removing the round "plugs" at each side of the drawer.
Also have you had any common faults with the top heater. Thanks.
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Sunday, August 05, 2007 - 11:55 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Element failures are not common. Yes the pins hold the drawer and drawer front.
Next message Lisa G (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, September 10, 2007 - 2:25 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a DD601 and lately the top drawer dispenser (left hand side only) is failing to emply it's contents during a wash cycle. I notice the detergent goes hard in the dispenser and is very difficult to get out at the end. What could be the problem? I am using the same detergent I have always used and the same problem does not occur on the bottom drawer? It seems to still wash my dishes ok.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Monday, September 10, 2007 - 9:16 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
top drawer dispenser (left hand side only) is failing to emply it's contents during a wash cycle.

When is the last time you took the unit apart to clean it out under the screen? The instructions are in the manual supplied with the unit. The drain is less than 1/2" in diameter and food pieces (such as used in soup) can become a blockage if left in the base. Can you turn the wash arm (motor rotor) freely? How often do you clean the screen trap and make sure nothing has leaked through into the cavity area under the screening?

I notice the detergent goes hard in the dispenser and is very difficult to get out at the end.

Have you cleaned it out manually? It sounds like the wash arm is not spinning and pumping water properly. If it does not turn freely you can order a new motor rotor assembly from Fisher/Paykel. Make sure the passage for the water is clear.

problem does not occur on the bottom drawer?

What do you mean the left hand side only in the above? Each drawer is actually an independent unit and has completely different controls. Sounds like you use it more and have not rinsed off the food off of the dishes before you put them in. Poor input will yield a gummied-up machine and poor results.

It seems to still wash my dishes ok.

After what you described I do not think that is possible! A good technician experienced in dish drawers can really help you here!

Norm
Next message lisa g (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, September 10, 2007 - 7:47 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi Norm,
In addition, on the bottom drawer, both sides of the dishwashing powder dispenser empty when I run a wash cycle, hence my comment that it does not occur on the bottom drawer.
It still does wash my dishes ok as I said, it is just the left hand side of the dishwashing powder dispenser that does not seem to empty properly. Is this a known problem or some other problem? Thanks for your assistance.
Lisa
Next message lisa g (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, September 10, 2007 - 7:53 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi Norm,
The units are both cleaned regularly and in looking again the top unit is spotless - no evidence of food scraps in or around the screen trap or under the screen. The wash arm is spinning freely and the passage for the water is clear. When I refer to the left hand side I am referring to the dishwash detergent dispenser - it has two sides, the left hand is slighly smaller than the right hand side and on the top unit is not emptying properly after each load. IN fact the detergent in it gets wet and it goes hard making removal afer each load difficult. I hope this helps further diagnose my problem? Lisa
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Monday, September 10, 2007 - 8:50 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
3.5 Dispensing Detergent
The dispenser is mounted in the front wall of the wash tub.
The detergent dispenser consists of two detergent chambers, one for pre wash and the
other for the main wash.
The detergent dispenser door is opened manually for detergent loading and then manually
closed ready for the detergent to be transported to the wash tub by the inlet water. To
enable each detergent chamber to be dispensed separately, an inlet water diverter valve
controlled by the electronics is necessary.
Additionally a positive displacement pump unit and storage tank are incorporated within
the dispenser to supply rinse aid. The rinse aid dispensed volume is adjusted utilising the
dishwasher electronic controller. A glowing red light on the tank filler cap indicates an
empty rinse aid tank.

The wash arm has nothing to do with dispensing the detergent. During the fill cycle water is put into the side of the dispenser for that cycle and the water overflows the cup and flushes the detergent out. The small side is the prewash. Either the D1spensor is bad, the controller, or the wiring harness between them. Most likely it is the dispenser. Without having test equipment, the cheapest thing to do is replace the dispenser and harness.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2007 - 6:01 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
lisa g--

I agree with Roy here.

But I would suggest that you get a tech familiar with your unit to check it out fully rather then yourself. (No offense meant)

Norm
Next message lisag (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2007 - 12:37 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
thanks all for your help - i will take your advice and get a tech to check it out.
Next message Allen Kirby (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 8:17 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Help! I have a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher Model DD6021 (it has been a problem since I bought it). The plastic seal kit (the piece that holds the rubber seals) around the bottom draw has disentigrated and needs to be replaced. Can anyone supply me with a part number or place I can order from.

Thanks, Allen
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 8:31 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
> You have to order parts dirct from Fisher & Paykel. Give them your model and they will look up the correct part. > >
Next message Louise (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Saturday, September 29, 2007 - 9:44 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

We are trying to install our new DD603ZW but are having troubles removing the bottom drawer. The instructions sound simple,
"Release the tub by depressing the right hand tub clip and pushing it back 30mm. Repeat on the left hand side." I am able to easily depress the tub clip but it does not push back at all. Any suggestions?
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Sunday, September 30, 2007 - 8:26 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Just press both clips and pull the drawer out just a bit. Lift each side one at a time, reach under and push the track back. Note: the release clips are not the round buttons but the square tabs at the very bottom.
Next message martyinalaska (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Wednesday, December 19, 2007 - 9:10 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I just purchased a used DD602, I am having major flooding from the top drawer unit, in the rear there is an overflow/air gap unit, the part# on the piece is PP-TF20, I removed the drawer and filled the drawer in the bathtub, when approx. 3 inches of water fills the tub it starts to overflow from the above unit, the water flows from the sides of the PP unit, not like a leak, like a flood! It doesnt appear that any pieces are missing, it looks like an air bleeder to me? I cant remove the piece as it is siliconed onto the back of the drawer. Do I need a new tub? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Wednesday, December 19, 2007 - 11:25 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
DD602 is an old unit. The air gap is suppose to be there. The water level never gets that high, it only gets to just below the wash arm. Most common problem with leaks is problems with air seal system not sealing the top of the drawer. (holes in rubber seal, air pump not working, or air leaks in the connecting tubing)
Next message darren 02 (Unregistered Guest)  Unregistered guest
 posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2008 - 9:53 pm
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Hey guys, I have a 3 year old dishdrawer and the bottom drawer is retaining water after I have finished a wash, I have removed the acreen and made sure everything is clean but saw a few watermelon pips floating around so can't help but think some may have blocked the drain. I have not been able to remove the rotor etc in order to check it is not blocked inside but the unit seems to function OK (no weird noises) so am really not sure what the problem is.
ca you tell me how to remove the rotor etc from the middle of the unit?

where else do I look?

thanks a lot

Darren
Next message Peter Gable (Unregistered Guest)  Unregistered guest
 posted on Monday, February 18, 2008 - 7:38 pm
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Hi all,

I have a F1 code showing up on both draws on our DD601v2 Fisher and Paykel. Along with this I am getting water coming out of the front of the machine, I assume from the draws.

Is this a seal problem or would there be other issues at play here ?

TIA.

Cheers, Pete'
Next message Gav. Abfalter (Unregistered Guest)  Unregistered guest
 posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2008 - 6:18 am
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Just noticed a post regarding heating elements not failing. I've got a DD602 discovered it was tripping my earth leakage breaker at certain points in the wash cycle for the top drawer. A year or two back I had noticed a small rust stain had popped up on heating element ceramic plate, nothing too big but noticable. This rust stain had now become quite large and interestingly coincided to the same location where the earth lug connects to the ceramic plate. It has rusted through enough to provide a path to connect the element voltage to ground when the element was powered up following the initial rinse cycle.
Anyways have replaced the element but noticed the bottom drawer is showing the same rust sympton and will no doubt follow the same path and fail at some stage. I suspect there is some sort of electrical/dissimilar metal triggered rust effect at play there.
Anyone experience anything the same. Not sure if the element is the same for earlier or later models.
Next message M isty (Unregistered Guest)   Unregistered guest
 posted on Sunday, March 30, 2008 - 3:15 pm
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My husband and i have a Fisher&Paykel DD603 unit and the drain hose in the bottom drawer is clogged. we are trying to remove the bottom drawer to blow the line out... we cannot figure it out and do not want to take the front panel and all off. Help!!! is it the same as above where you remove the buttons with ?needle nose plyers
Next message Roy Murray  Moderator or Asst Administrator
 posted on Sunday, March 30, 2008 - 3:29 pm Post Number: 1641 Registered: 10-2001


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You need to take the drawer out and take the front off to get the bottom off. There are push tabs on the drawer on the sides at the front bottom. Push these in the the drawer can be slid forward and the tracks pushed back. the Pins hold the drawer front on, remove the front by sliding it down after the pins are out. Take the bottom trim off. Then there are tabs that hold the front of the bottom panel 2 on each side by the grates and 3 on the bottom around the motor. Remember how it comes apart. The drain hose is held on with one tab and pulls out. Dont loose the check valve that is in the end off it, Good Luck.
The nice thing about Windows is - It does not just crash, it displays a dialog box and lets you press 'OK' first.
Next message Jors Myne (Unregistered Guest)  Unregistered guest
 posted on Monday, April 07, 2008 - 7:40 pm
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I bought the DD650 and here I am trawling forums for support within a week. I just want to ask if it is normal that both drawers donít seem to drain properly. There is still water left just below the big round silver strainer thingy. If I reach in to clean the little filter it is always under water.

The drawer itself is dry(ish). Its just the water sloshing around underneath that concerns me. Previous dishwashers I have had are bone dry after a cycle.

Is that right?
Next message marilyn (Unregistered Guest)  Unregistered guest
 posted on Monday, April 07, 2008 - 7:45 pm
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Having F1 issues; I got tabs out, front off, cannot seem to get drawer out or back in all the way??
Next message marilyn (Unregistered Guest)  Unregistered guest
 posted on Monday, April 07, 2008 - 7:47 pm
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it is a 602 model. i was trying to get drawer off in order to dry tray
Next message marilyn (Unregistered Guest)  Unregistered guest
 posted on Monday, April 07, 2008 - 8:18 pm
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I got drawer back in ; dried best I could ; but water still dripping from front left side and F1 ; any advice?
Next message Roy Murray  Moderator or Asst Administrator
 posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2008 - 8:47 am Post Number: 1664 Registered: 10-2001


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Jors Myne, water there is normal.
The nice thing about Windows is - It does not just crash, it displays a dialog box and lets you press 'OK' first.
Next message Roy Murray  Moderator or Asst Administrator
 posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2008 - 8:51 am Post Number: 1665 Registered: 10-2001


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marilyn, on a 602 chances are you have a air leak in the gasket that seals the drawer. One other thing to check, make sure the top of the drawer is clean with no soap or mineral buildup.
The nice thing about Windows is - It does not just crash, it displays a dialog box and lets you press 'OK' first.
Next message Philip Farr (Unregistered Guest)   Unregistered guest
 posted on Tuesday, May 06, 2008 - 12:48 pm
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We have a F&P Dishdrawer DD603H no probs for around 2 years until last week we got the dreaded F1 fault - This was not the actual problem as I dried everything out inside after removing the drawer. I think the problem is with the little motor that closes the seal on the top drawer because at about 1 minute into it's cycle it now trips the main circuit breaker in the house - I think it could be that water has got into this little motor and is causing a short any ideas?

Also I know how to get into diagnostic mode and when I got to the letters DD that's when it tripped the main breaker - What is DD and where can I get a list of these diagnostics codes?
Most people on these forums say the are behind the drawer on the back - Not ours!!

Thanks for any help out there.
Next message getittogether666 (Unregistered Guest)   Unregistered guest
 posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 1:53 pm
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Hi I was wondering if anyone had a servicemanual for a f+p dd6201 so i can figure out how to get f codes and what they mean. I was also wondering if anyone knows where to get a new blow up seal for the lid.
Next message Roy Murray  Moderator or Asst Administrator
 posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 8:38 pm Post Number: 1831 Registered: 10-2001


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The code list should be in the packet on the back wall behind the bottom drawer.
You can only get parts from Fisher Paykel you can get there Phone numbers from:

http://www.fisherpaykel.com/
The nice thing about Windows is - It does not just crash, it displays a dialog box and lets you press 'OK' first.
Next message Julie (Unregistered Guest)   Unregistered guest
 posted on Thursday, July 31, 2008 - 7:48 am
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Hi,
We have a DD603 and recently the top drawer has been retaining water after a wash cycle. It still functions but the water is slightly higher after each wash. I have now stopped using it but the water is above the silver base and the plastic blades are sitting in water. I would really appreciate any advice on how to fix this.
Next message Norman Hochfeld  Member Level 2
 posted on Thursday, July 31, 2008 - 11:09 am Post Number: 949 Registered: 10-2006
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Julie (Unregistered Guest)

Do you have your owners manual? Please read it cover to cover.

Remove the blade unit and the strainer. There is a little hole that is the inlet for the pump. There has to be debris in the inlet. There should be nothing but water under the screen.

Once I had a customer with a baby cooked carrot jammed in there. Make sure the drain is clear and the unit is clean.

Please post again after you clean the sump and read the manual if you need further help.

Norm
Next message Sandra Burkholder (Unregistered Guest)  Unregistered guest
 posted on Saturday, August 16, 2008 - 7:29 pm
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Our DishDrawer was not draining, took it apart right down to the last removeable piece. There were a few pieces (small) glass in the very bottom (where the hole is for the drain). When we reassembled the mechanical parts (not installed in the drawer) and spun the bottom piece (the one that would be furthest down in the unit), it does not turn with the shaft. The bottom piece has plastic flares that look kind of banged up too.

We are guessing the motor is in the middle (magnetic) and drives the whole shaft with both top and bottom rotors (for lack of a better word).

I'm guessing the bottom part is stripped (the shaft with grooves in it looks o.k.)and that we need to replace it. Part # on it is PP-T20, a part I've seen mentioned in previous postings.

Are we correct about the part needing to turn with the shaft? We did not have a parts manual shipped with the unit.
Next message Roy Murray  Moderator or Asst Administrator
 posted on Saturday, August 16, 2008 - 8:04 pm Post Number: 2007 Registered: 10-2001


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You did not post a model number. assuming it is a double draw unit you can swap the rotor from the other drawer to test it.
Again you did not post a model number so we can not help you much.
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http://www.servicetechhelp.com/search/search.php
Next message Norman Hochfeld  Member Level 3
 posted on Saturday, August 16, 2008 - 9:32 pm Post Number: 1044 Registered: 10-2006
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Sandra Burkholder (Unregistered Guest)

Every part you need has to come from Fisher-Paykel.

The motor is the circulation pump. The fins are known as the impeller and are attached to the rotor. The spray arm goes on top of the rotor.
You may still have a piece of glass in the lower bearing. (The center part when you look at it with the rotor removed)

Try sucking the lower bearing hole out with a vacuum and clean the hole with a q-tip and stick of a Q-tip so you can clean it completely.

The rotor must turn freely when you install the top keeper.

Fisher-Paykel does not ship any type of service information with the unit as they feel that customers should not be performing repairs. They will sell you the parts if you describe them to the order agent. Call Fisher-Paykel toll free to Brisbayne, Australia at 888-936-7872
Next message Sandra Burkholder (Unregistered Guest)  Unregistered guest
 posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2008 - 12:52 pm
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Thank you for the info, we will make sure we clean the hole.

We called F&P on Monday morning as the dealer we purchased the unit from was closed. They were UNHELPFUL. Wanted us to spend $50 on a parts manual. I finally talked somebody into emailing a one page schematic so we could identify the part since we were going nowhere trying to describe it on the phone (she had no clue). After tracking down a repair shop in Vancouver, B.C. they said to order from FP to avoid their mark up. See next post for continuation...
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