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This topic is closed all and all Maytag Neptune posts are being split up by model number and problem under Maytag Neptune Only.
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Next message James Nelson (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, May 30, 2004 - 11:35 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a Maytag Neptune washer and when i push the On Button it will run for about 30 seconds and then shut off and will not finish its wash cycle.
Can you tell me what the problem may be.
Thank You'
James Nelson
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Monday, May 31, 2004 - 10:04 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
You din't give a Model or Ser Number. Normally this would be a problem with the Push to Start Switch or the Machine Control Board or related wiring.
Next message Brad DiDo (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, February 27, 2005 - 4:04 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Maytag dryer Model DE412
Dryer squeals loudly as it runs. Louder at some times than others. It doesn't seem to be the pully or drive mechanism that the belt is wrapped around. It seems to up higher on the back side of the drum. How can you remove the top of the dryer to look down in. Ir can you remove it}}
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Monday, February 28, 2005 - 8:37 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
It may be the drum rollers. There are 2 screws on the front panel near the bottom, once you remove them the front panel swings up.
No need to remove the top.
Next message J. Mark (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, March 01, 2005 - 6:09 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
lazybum, I've been told by a gentleman that answered the phone for the class action counsel that, though it is not yet published, the purchase certificates will be honored on front loaders as well.
Next message Pegi Kelly (Pegi_at_sams)   posted on Tuesday, March 01, 2005 - 6:28 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
http://www.maytagfrontloadsettlement.com/


Settlement web site.
Next message danytech (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2005 - 1:21 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
hi James! for your problem it may be push to start button. it stops 5,6, sec. later? try this!
Next message Stephanie Davis (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, May 23, 2005 - 10:56 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Can you replace the fuse on the motor control board or will I just have to replace the whole control board all together? Here is some info....I have a MAH5500B. The fuse on the motor control board is bad, everything else checks out okay.
Next message Louis Bennett (Afforableappliance)   posted on Monday, May 23, 2005 - 11:34 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
James RE: Maytag Neptume--push to start then stops after 30secs.
It may be a push to start switch --but-- I would
Check your motor control.If your unit is prior to series 88 then use motor conversion kit #12002039
If it's series 88 or later, then use part # 22004046
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Monday, May 23, 2005 - 11:48 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Stephanie Davis;
If the fuse is blown you need a motor and motor control board.
The motor has a 10 year parts warranty and will be replace as a motor and control board kit if you call Maytag or and authorized service company.
I beleive you will be charged for labor only.
Next message Dave Roberts (Chevy57purple)   posted on Friday, June 24, 2005 - 8:12 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a Neptune Stack Mod MDB6100AWW The washer leaks from the fabric softner disp then down the door on to the floor .Hoses are clear but the disp drains to slow for the amount of water that comes in Is there any updates that i missed or has any one run in to this problem
Next message anita Weil (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, July 28, 2005 - 2:43 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a nepture mdg5500bww dryer. It just started to make a noise like a shoe is in the dryer. Does anyone know what part is broken and if it is easy to fix without a repair person.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Thursday, July 28, 2005 - 9:43 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
It's realy hard to determine what is causing a noise with hearing it.
Common noise problems are belt, pully, glides, blower, motor, worn seals or something caught in the seals or baffles.
Next message Lynn M Bent (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Friday, July 29, 2005 - 10:15 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a call on a MAH5500BWW ser#7391308925 Maytag front loader.Its pumps the water out but I don't hear it go into agitation or a pump out.Its my first LED model and I'm sorting through the volume of diagnostics & schematics.My customer is being patient but I don't have a solution for it as yet.LMBent

(Message edited by admin on July 29, 2005)
Next message Jay Allen (Jay)   posted on Friday, July 29, 2005 - 10:33 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
there are pretty detailed diagnostics on the tech sheet. I would just follow that to get your questions answered.
Next message Peter Kapinos (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2005 - 3:51 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi:

I have a Maytag Neptune clothes washer, MAH4000AWW (s/n: 45272530WZ, purchased 10/2000, PHA kit installed 9/2003) that has started to slam / hammer the water supply lines when it completes the fill or drain portions of a cycle. I am wondering if the water valve (p/n: 22002795) is going bad ? Other then the noise the machine fills and drains OK. I have tried the hammer arrestors with no luck. Thanks


Peter
Next message Carol H (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, December 06, 2005 - 12:03 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Replaced the control board and wax motor on my Mah4000aww last night. Washed 2 loads and it worked, the 3rd time it did not spin even though the lock light was on. Unplugged for the night and used this morning. Once again worked fine for 2 loads and now will not spin even though light is on and door locked. Any ideas?
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Tuesday, December 06, 2005 - 8:05 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Make sure the ramp on the door lock that the hook on the door is not worn down. Check the "N" shaped spring that pushes on the wax motor. Check that the spin switch is closing (different then the lock light switch). check the out of balance wiring and switches. check the motor and motor board.
Next message kinsonora (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 6:22 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I REPLACED THE CONTROL BOARD AND WAX MOTOR but when i push the On Button does not run and then shut off i have to put my finger in the button in order to run the machine.
is a maytag Mah4000aww
WHAT CANI DO
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Monday, December 12, 2005 - 8:53 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I'm not sure what button your putting your finger in?
We need a serial number as there are several versions.
What was the part number of the control board?
What was the original problem?
Next message kinsonora (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 4:54 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
THE ORIGINAL PROBLEM WAS WHITH THE CONTROL BOARD, R11 RESISTOR BLOWN AND Q6 TRIAC SMOKED, AND THE WAX MOTOR IN BAD CONDITION. I CHANGE THE R11 FOR AN NTE5657 AN THE Q6 FOR A NEW ONE BUT IT'S BURN AGAIN THEN I BOUGTH THE NEW CONTROL BOARD AND THE WAX MOTOR
IS A MAYTAG MAH4000AWW THAT I BOUGTH IN 1999
THE CONTROL BOARD NUMBER IS 22002989.
I HAVE A NEW CONTROL BOARD AND A NEW WAX MOTOR BUT WHEN I PUSH THE STAR BOTTON IN ORDER TO TURN ON THE MACHINE, DOES NOT WORK
I AM FROM MEXICO A HOPE THAT MY WRITING IS OK
THANKS FOR YOU HELP

(Message edited by roy on December 13, 2005)
Next message Pegi Kelly (Pegi_at_sams)   posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 5:44 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Your writing is just fine, someone who knows these machines will help your shortly... :-)
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 8:39 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Your writing is fine. Check and make sure the N shaped spring is holding the wax motor tight. Make sure both contacts on the push to start switch are closing. make sure the door catch switch is closing.
Next message kinsonora (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, December 28, 2005 - 8:51 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
HI I CHANGE AN CHECK EVERYTHING THAT YOU HAVE SAID ALL THIS GOOD BUT NOW THE WASHER NO LONGER DRIES(SPIN) THE CLOTHES, I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM THAT TAPEWORM IN THE BEGINNING.WHAT CAN I DO.

MANY THANKS
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 11:47 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Is the lock light coming on?
One other thing to check is where the door hook goes into the lock assy. I have seen the ramp wear down so the switch is not quite closing.
Next message Bobbi Joe (Twogalsappliance)   posted on Sunday, January 08, 2006 - 3:52 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
wow, Roy, Jay, Bossman, Peggy.... these maytag front loaders are beating you to death, eh?
Nice job.... very nice job in answering.
thanks,........I don't know why they want to fix the board when you tell them over and over again to just replace the board because of other possible problems.
Your patience is outstanding. :-)
Next message Screwed (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 6:59 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Can't figure this out. I own a Neptune MAH4000AWW which hasn't given any problems for four years now, untill this week. No spin, replaced wax motor, R11, and Q6 with the recomended upgrades. When I put it all back together nothing worked at all!? So back apart it came looked at the control board and noticed that the trace from the 24v output (red wire goes to timer, start/stop, water temp, and spin enable switch) to the other 24v output (blue wire goes to motor control) was burnt. I traced it back to a short between the red wire and white common wire at the door latch unit. I know that there is no hope for the control board but would that be the only thing that is bad or should I expect somthing else?
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Friday, January 20, 2006 - 7:59 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
1st we never recommended replacing r11 and q6!
If r11 is burned it is a issue with the wax motor for the door latch. Proper repair is replace wax motor and replace machine board.
I'm guessing wire is burnt due to a bad motor controller.
Next message 4MLA1FN (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Friday, January 27, 2006 - 2:03 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
i did a load last week in my mah4000awww, opened the door and there was lots of water in the tub and a lot spilled down the front of the machine. the tech found that the drain pump was jammed by the missing metal hinge pin from the detergent fill door. with a new pump, the machine will not do a high speed spin; it turns slowly one way a couple times, then another a couple times and stops. the tech said i needed a new board, thinking the water running down the front shorted out something. it was cost $200-$300 to fix. i said don't bother. i picked up a new/unused board on ebay ($50) but the machine does the same thing. argh.

i'd really appreciate any advise. it feels like there should be a reboot switch or something to say "hey, there's a new board. start working!" :D

thanks.
Next message G Gilmore (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Saturday, January 28, 2006 - 1:00 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I've been reading LOTS of info about my MAH4000AWW that last night suffered the "No high Spin" and "no locked door light or door" symptoms.

Several questions: It appears the class action ( at least the first one) is over. Has anyone received any "help" from Maytag since the close?
Yesterday was the first day I was aware of it.

Also, my board appears ok from observation and the latch switch continuity is ok, but my board appears to be unlike the ones I've seen pictured around the web.

My machine serial number begins with 60 and the control board is Model: AA20630, PN: 62713980, Ref: 298901, ID: 2932018966, and the note is "Use only with Motor PN H55BMBJL-1841.

Is this the first of this crate?
Next message joe (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Saturday, January 28, 2006 - 5:32 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi All. I also missed the class action for my MAH4000AWW maytag neptune washer. I got it in 2000 and never had a problem. This week it started to act up. my wife put it on and while filling it stopped and made a whinny sound. we called the maytag service rep and he came and charged me $137.99 for the call and to diag the machine. he said it was several problems. the first was the motor which he said was covered under a 10 yr warranty, the other problems he mentioned was that I needed a machine control board, a timer and a water valve. he told me the total with the service call would be around $500.00. I told him I would throw it out before I paid $500 bucks for a 5 yr old machine. After talking to him he still needed to collect the full $137.99 so I made him install the motor( under warranty)shold I install all the other parts without the wax motor
Next message joe (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Saturday, January 28, 2006 - 5:36 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
cont. he said that I need a control board, timer and water valve. the total of the repair would be 500 bucks. I have found all those parts, should I install just those? I see everyone talking about the wax motor being the cause of the board problem. Hey Roy, can you enlighten me why the tech didn't change the board if it comes with the motor. Thanks joe
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Saturday, January 28, 2006 - 10:07 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Joe it depends on the model and serial #. If it already had the newer motor and board only the failed motor needs to be replaced if the board is ok. (only the motor has the 10 year warranty).
If it was a older style motor then both must be installed (as a motor conversion) and both would be covered since the original motor is NLA.
The wax motor only has to be replaced if it failed and caused the machine board to go bad.
Since you didn't post a s# I can't tell if the motor board needed replacing.
It it is possible it needs all those parts, But not not seeing it, I cant say for sure.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Saturday, January 28, 2006 - 10:13 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
G Gilmore. You can't go by the #'s on the board.
Most of the time r11 will be burned only if the wax motor goes bad.
Is the door locking and the lite not liting?Check the wiring, check the the ramp that the door latch slides up on.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Saturday, January 28, 2006 - 10:18 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
4MLA1FN. No there is no reset. Which board did you replace? the motor control board in the bottom or the machine board on the consule.
Next message g gilmore (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 10:44 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Roy, My symptoms were no spin, no locked door light , and no locked door. It appears the wax motor plunger will not move. With no clothes or water in the tub, the door removed, the timer set to "spin", and the two door latch swithes and door open swith manualy engaged, I only get 24V across the wax motor treminals. I've read it should be 120V. The locked door light "on" when over-ridden and a spin does occur, but the wax mot plunger does not move. Could this be because the processor now checks the sequence for the manually over-ridden swithes? Also, is the "new" "better" wax motor the one with a black plunger?
Next message g gilmore (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 10:55 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
All, I guess the simple question from my previous post is, "Could my machine only need a new wax motor to put it back in service?"
Next message 4MLA1FN (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 11:11 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
hi roy. sorry for the confusion. i replaced the motor control board at the bottom of the machine. since my post, i've done some fiddling (making sure all the connectors were seated, etc) i did a quick cycle with a small load. the spin cycle actually spun up! weird. larger loads work fine also. the machine didn't seem to be giving the highest speed spin and shakes quite a bit. i'll check the levelers. i noticed there are "struts" inside. is that a kind of damper? can they go bad, say, in a 5.5yr old machine)?

anyway, this has been a good experience. next project: change that nasty tub boot. google found me a service manual pdf for the 3000 (nothing for the 4000), so i hope to DIY if i can figure out all the needed parts. ding! there must be a thread on that in this forum. :-)
Next message joe (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 11:40 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi roy, the model is MAH4000AWW and the ser# is 52326378YF. I never had a problem with the lock. My problem was the water stopped coming out. the tech said the motor,control board,timer and watervavle was gone( it's 5 yrs. old) I made him change the motor on the bottom and he changed something on the other side under the machine. I was suppose to get the control board, timer and water valve for another $400.00. I said NO. I got them myself. If I change these do I have to do the wax motor and latch assy. or anything else
Next message joe (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 12:05 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi again roy, I have been reading and the tech changed the motor and motor control board. I am know left with the tech saying the machine control board on top, the timer and the water valve, all at the top of the machine, which he said the reason I need all these parts may be because of the water valve or the timer causing the motor and motor control board to go. He also said that that may have hurt the machine board. Not sure. I would just like to know that if I change the timer, machine control board and water vavle. Can this happen again because of the wax motor or what else should I replace. Thanks, you are a big help to this tread. We shold all take you ou5t for a beer....
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 12:12 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Serial # 52 required the full conversion kit (motor and motor controller) unless the conversion kit was install before. The motor controller is located on the right side bottom which is what it sounds like he installed.
If you got a wax motor go ahead and change it, as a precaution. however I dont think this it is required to get it running. Also im not sure on the timer either. The motor controller must be replaced with the motor and if it was not then that may be all that is wrong.
A new style motor controller will have a short 2 wire harness with a white plug on the end that attaches to the machine wiring harness 2 wire blue plug.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 12:20 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Yes the dampers do wear out but no often. If its shanking it will not get up to full speed.
Joe virtual Beer virtual beer
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 12:35 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
g gilmore. check the voltage at the machine control board p7 pin 4 to neutral. If it is 110v check the wiring from the board to the wax motor.
if not replace the board (and the wax motor as a precaution).
Next message joe (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 12:54 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Yes, Roy I believe that both the motor and motor control board was changed. The machine still don't work and the tech said it won't work until the machine control board and timer was changed. he also siad that because I seen water filling the machine with all 3 ports( water fill, bleach port and softener port that I should replace also. He never said anything about the wax motor. Thats why I am afaid to change the board, timer and water valve and the wax motor caused it. I pulled the machine board and don't see any tell tale signs of a burn.
Next message Jay Allen (Jay)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 1:11 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
By court order, Maytag cannot do anything for customers on the lawsuit problems. One of the sad things about class action lawuits is that when the settlement is determined, the manufacturer is no longer able to do anything about it.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 1:46 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Joe if you got all those part put them in. I would change the wax motor only as a precaution since it is only a few $ and you doing everything else.
Next message g gilmore (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 4:18 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Roy,

Thanks for the feedback. I'll check it.

Jay: Your comment sounds somewhat reasonable. However, my understanding is the class action was NOT A RECALL. I only learned of the lawsuit 3 days ago (when my machine failed) and I am apparently locked out of that one. Because of that I have not bothered to read the class action details. Perhaps the action does not appply to my Series "60..." machine--I don't know. Either way it would seem "reasonable" efforts should have been required to notify owners.

The warranty card says to submit it for "recall info", and my understanding is that one can prove their purchase timeframe and be covered by the warranty.

Perhaps Home Depot (who knew I had purchased one of the covered machines) should have made an effor to notify me. I live in the same place as in September 2000 and the receipt shows the Model number (covered by the class action).
Next message g gilmore (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 4:18 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Jay: (continued)

Is it also ironic that as of yesterday, Home Depot was selling (on their web site) one of the models cover under the now "closed" class action.
Next message g gilmore (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 4:39 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Roy,

I don't think I have the control board you mention. I have an MAH4000AWW Serial 60....
It's control board looks nothing like the one posted with the burned R11. It has P1(com) and JP4 and "L" and "N" terminals.

But it sounds like your info is that I SHOULD have 120V instead of 24V at the Wax Motor during the "Spin" cycle.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 5:08 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Are you sure your looking at the machine control board in the consule? all MAH4000AWW have a p7 on the machine board
Next message Jay Allen (Jay)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 6:43 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
g,

You are correct, it was not a recall. In general, appliance recalls only happen when there is a product failure that poses a serious safety hazard, such as a fire or electric shock potential. In the case of the Neptunes, the two major problems were a failure of the door lock, which was damaging the control board and the mildew problem, which was a combination of deficient venting and a boot that did not drain completely. Those are performance issues, not safety issues, so the manufacturer would not have issued a "recall".

The lawsuit did force Maytag to make every "reasonable" effort to contact the owners of the affected machines. Those efforts included the following:

1) Maytag requested sales information from all the companies that sell their products, and mailed notification to those people.

2) Maytag contaced all individuals that had model and serial information recorded in their database. This could include people who sent in their registration cards, or people that already had some contact with Maytag, either through a phone call or through warranty service.

3) Maytag also requested any information authorized servicers (such as my company) had in their databases.

4) Maytag spend $5 million in mass media advertising, publicizing the settlement. This included two full page ads in USA Yesterday and the NY Times, as well as a boatload of radio and television advertising.

I know of a few people who owned these units who did not know about it. It is really not Maytag's fault, in my opinion. They made a huge effort to get the word out.

You could prove your purchase date, but the actual warranty for the settlement issues would have been one year. The motor was covered by a 10 year warranty. If your washer is less than a year old, you could get repairs covered by the one year warranty.

Home Depot sells many things, but of the washers covered by the class action lawsuit, the last one was manufactured in 2001, even though the lawsuit covered units purchased until August 8, 2004. If Home Depot is selling any, they are selling units they must have had in a warehouse somewhere for a very long time, and that is not very Home Depot-like.

I don't have a lot of time to spend looking at the Home Depot site, but I could not find any washers there that were covered by the lawsuit.

(Message edited by Jay on January 29, 2006)
Next message ADMIN (Admin)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 6:59 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
The ones being currenty sold include all updates (software, boot with a drain, newer motor and motor controller, machine board, etc).
In anycase here is not the place to discuss the lawsuit.
Next message g gilmore (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 8:05 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Jay, Admin:

Thanks for the info. Your info seems to indicate a reasonable effort on Maytag's part. However, your info likewise suggests that my local Home Depot failed to furnish my name to Maytag.
The model selling on Hpme Depot Website is MAH55FLBWQ and a model listed on MayTag settlement site is the same: MAH55FLBWQ!
The currently available machine may be fine, I don't know. But it would seem to suggest that a new class action might be appropriate for covering specific serial numbers.
My apologies to the Admin if it is not appropriate.
Next message g gilmoreAKA idiot (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 8:07 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Roy,

Thanks for your patience. I thought the board at the base was the one with the r11/q6 problem. I did not check the "console". I now see my burned R11. Thanks!
Next message Jay Allen (Jay)   posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 8:51 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Roy, please let me make one more comment...

The Model Number is not the only consideration. Knowing the serial number is also important. Regardless, the settlement that Maytag entered into precludes any further lawsuits on similar issues. The class-action sword definitely cuts in two directions...
Next message joe (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, February 07, 2006 - 2:34 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hey roy, I'm back again. I had a problem with my maytag neptune. I had the maytag tech change the motor and motor control board. He said I needed a machine control board, a timer, and a water valve. The model # is MAH4000AWW and the serial # is 52326378YF. I replaced the machine control board, the timer and the water valve. I also replaced the wax motor per your suggestion. I put it all back together and hit the start button and it sparked and the NTC 5-0 going between the two middle wires looks cooked. Any idea why?? Thanks
Next message joe (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, February 07, 2006 - 2:36 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
btw roy, it also blows the breaker on the last post
Next message Alan (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Sunday, February 12, 2006 - 2:49 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a Maytag Neptune MAH5500AWW Serial Number 63778168YZ purchased in January 2001. (We never heard of recall until it was too late). We have mold growing on the gray boot. How hard is it to replace boot and what do parts cost? Are there likely to be other problems or will this fix it?
Next message DanaRenee (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, February 13, 2006 - 12:16 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a neptune mah4000aww never knew of the recall but am experiencing problems. The agitator cuts on and off and on and off every couple of seconds. It just has never sounded normal. And of course the mold. Thats is a huge issue. The agitator always sounds like it is shifting directions. Just does not seem right!
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Tuesday, February 14, 2006 - 11:03 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
There is no agitator in a front load neptune. It agitates the cloths by changing the basket direction. As far as the mold goes. Use Hot Water and Bleach a few times a week. Also make sure you are using HE soap.
Next message harold william fugate (Haroldservice)   posted on Saturday, February 18, 2006 - 11:37 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thanks again, Roy. And to all who support STH.
Next message ggilmore (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Sunday, March 05, 2006 - 10:52 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Just a follow-up to my earlier posts.

I have replaced the wax motor and resistor and triac on my MAH4000AWW. It has now been working "normally" for several weeks.

Thanks to all who have posted this fix elsewhere and for the help from this board as well.

I still suffer from the mold issue and I will never forget that Maytag failed to support it's no longer deserving moniker of "dependability", much less customer satisfaction.

I haven't yet asked Home Depot if they were asked who purchased "defective" machines, or if they were, why they made no effort to contact their (HD) customers. As I recall, HD wanted my info for this purpose.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Sunday, March 05, 2006 - 11:40 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
We do not recommend replacing parts on the board as an official repair. If it works for you, fine, but the risk is your own. We only recommend complete board replacement as the new board comes with software updates that corrects, and addresses some other issues.
The lawsuit tied Maytags hands as to what they can offer as far as additional repairs.. Your issue here is with the law firm that has the settlement not Maytag.
Next message ggilmore (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 4:37 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Roy,

Thanks again for your reply. I understand the matter of replacing components; I would offer no other suggestion myself. I'm delighted at this point that the fix worked.

As far as my complaint with Maytag--- and I know you don't want to discuss this at length in this forum, but with all due respect, no lawsuit settlement could PROHIBIT Maytag for doing good customer service/relations. They may have no further obligation under the settlement and one may agrue that no consumer can pursue under the previous settlement, but nothing prevents Maytag from protecting it's reputation and doing the right thing!
Next message Brian schaefer (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, March 13, 2006 - 8:18 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have an MAH4000aww purchased about 5 years ago. I had some problems with it about 3 years ago and Maytag fixed it. The unit will now start , but will stop in a few seconds, no matter what the cycle is. If I keep my finger on the start swith it will stay on, but will stop after I let it go. Where can I find a service chart for this sucker? I can't believe it is the switch, Doesn't it have a self holding circuit?
Next message Jay Allen (Jay)   posted on Monday, March 13, 2006 - 9:11 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Actually, that probably is a start switch problem...
Next message harold william fugate (Haroldservice)   posted on Tuesday, March 14, 2006 - 1:22 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
or possibly a loose conecction, had a phantom and it went away after checking the quick disconnects.
Next message dgz6091 (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 5:29 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a neptune mah4000aww that conveyed with the house I bought several years ago so I don't know the washer's age. Recently, the washer makes a loud banging noise during the spin cycle. Turns out to be a broken bolt that attaches the spin basket to the spinner support. Can I just replace the sheared off bolt or do I neet to buy a new spinner support kit?
Next message Ken (Ken)   posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 7:36 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
You will need to replaced the complete support. The "bolts" are studs that come in the support. Ken
Next message Pete Mills (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 8:16 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a MAH5500BWW I Purchased the 12002039 Motor and motor control board to fix the lack of spinning however the new Motor control board is different than the old one and I'm not sure how to connect. Best I can tell I may have to disassemble the Green plug on the factory harness and connect the individual wires to the nee plugs on the board. Is this correct or do I disregard the new plugs and plug the green connector into the space it fits?
Next message Pete Mills (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 8:44 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I believe I figured out that the extra plugs are for an AC line conditioner for older model units not mine. However Replacement did not solve my problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My washer washes just fine the door locks and the light comes on however it never spins the water drains but it never spins.
Next message Pete Mills (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 9:33 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Well I should have just opened this damn machine up and done some trouble shooting before I bought parts. Turns out the lower out of balance / over loaded kill switch was stuck. A few quick flips of the button and it cleared. Machine is back up and spinning now.
Next message Roger Zimmermann (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, April 27, 2006 - 3:25 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I own a MAH5500BWW and the unit now fails to spin. I opened the front
and had a look at the motor control board. R25 and (I believe) R24
have been burnt on the board. The machine is out of warranty and I am
looking at a significant cost to replace the board. Would it be worth
a try to replace those resistors? I am wondering if any other
components may have been damaged.

I have put two pictures of the motor control board on my website. The
burnt area is near the red wire at the bottom.
Before I cleaned it with alcohol:
http://dmrl.usc.edu/images/156_5642.jpg
After I cleaned it:
http://dmrl.usc.edu/images/156_5646.jpg

Any suggestions are appreciated!
-Roger
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Thursday, April 27, 2006 - 7:16 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
You need to replace both the motor and motor control board.
Next message Roger Zimmermann (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Friday, April 28, 2006 - 12:57 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Ron, thanks much for the quick feedback. I understand that replacing the motor and the board are the safe thing to do.
Next message Tom Leach (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 9:27 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a mah4000aww and the belt came off the pulley toward the outer tub. It seems as though the spin basket is too low in the front of the machine which would make the belt walk off the pulley. What supports the front of the spinner basket and keeps it from slumping in the front?
Next message Joe Dodge (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Tuesday, May 02, 2006 - 12:00 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a Maytag Neptune MAH3000, S/N 181570555Y, and I've purchased the motor conversion kit for it. Everything was going together fine until the last step, which said 'Locate the blue 2 terminal connector on the main wire harness. Connect the blue main wire harness to the white connector from the AC line filter on the new motor control board.' Here's the rub, there is no blue connector ... the only conector left at this point is white. It looks like this connection will provide the control board with AC. Both connectors have a white and black wire. However, the only way these two connectors come close to connecting would connect the opposite colors together, and this seems wrong. Any ideas?? Thanks.
Next message Joe Dodge (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, May 03, 2006 - 4:13 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Reference my post from May 02,2006 ---
It appears that no one I can find has seen my problem, and I'm guessing that since my MAH3000 was purchased in 1997, that it had a slightly different wire harness. To make a long story short, I filed the white connector that was left smooth so it could be connected with the white wire matching the white and the black with the black ... we are now washing clothes again.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Wednesday, May 03, 2006 - 9:32 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Joe thanks for the follow up.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Wednesday, May 03, 2006 - 11:11 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Tom, Th spin basket it only held by the rear bearing right in front of the pulley (it is part of the outer tub). Either the bearing or spin basket support is worn, check for play. or the motor mounts or motor bearings are worn. New motor mounts come with the new motor. If the motor mounts are black they are the old stye and should be replaced anyway.
Next message john ballew (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, May 07, 2006 - 12:01 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a MAH4000AWW washer that starts to fill and stops. If you push the start button again it will begin to fill again. I had a full load but the the machine want tumble or rinse or spin. any suggestions?
Next message tripathisan (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Thursday, May 11, 2006 - 3:51 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I purchased a Maytag Neptune washer MAH5500AWW S/N 63778372YZ in Dec 2000. There is a cut on the gray rubber boot (between the door and drum). We had same issue about two years back and a technician came to replace it (it was under warranty then). How hard is to replace it and what do parts cost ? Any reliable place to buy the part ?

Thank you in advance !
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Thursday, May 11, 2006 - 9:01 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
>Not to hard, but it may take you a while to do. The hardest part is getting the boot spring back on. part # 12002533
Next message tripathisan (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Thursday, May 11, 2006 - 9:23 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Roy,

Thanks for quick help. Do you know a place to buy it and what part# should I buy ? I looked on the Maytag parts page and the tube and there are 3 of them which reflect to this like 18-10, 19-10 ... May be, need to call Maytag service and check about it before ordering the parts.

Sanjay.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Thursday, May 11, 2006 - 9:52 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
12002533 is the part number for the boot, the only part you need
Next message adam tyson (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, May 14, 2006 - 10:56 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi, I have a mah5500 washer that has a dead control panel, the inside light lites up but the control panel is completely dead, I cant find any fuse that might be blown, any ideas
Next message Tom U'Ren (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Saturday, May 20, 2006 - 1:36 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi, I have a MAH4000WW Washer that doesn't fill the softener or bleach tray. There is a trickle. If I pinch the supply hose during the softener or bleach cycle then the trays fill as expected. I suspect the inlet valve, I have 5 volts at the main inlet valve. Otherwise everything runs normal.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Saturday, May 20, 2006 - 8:52 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
5 volts is wrong is that 5 volts AC? it should be 12vac.
Before going any further check the house pressure and make sure the screen in the valve is not restricted. If you dont have 12vac you need a board. If you do you need a valve.
Next message Tom U'Ren (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 10:27 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thanks for the reply. I re-checked for AC. I have 12 volts on both sides of the inlet valve without ground reference. If I check from frame ground I get 120V AC. I have no AC voltage drop across the inlet valve. The 5 volts was DC drop across the valve. My electronics days are long past me now and I'm starting wonder if I'm qualified to own my Fluke anymore!. Shouldn't I need a ground reference to measure the 12v? Anyway, with the presence of 12V AC is it safe to assume a bad valve?
Thanks again
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 7:38 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
>If the valve screen is clean and the water pressure is ok then I would think the valve is bad.
Next message mark ferguson (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Tuesday, May 30, 2006 - 12:00 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
following a succesful replacement of R11, the triac, and the wax motor, I am now seeing the water valves turning on and off at odd times and "hammering".

The wax motor problem happened to our house sitter while we were away, and I don't know if the water valve problem showed up before the wax motor died, or was caused when the wax motor circuit died.

The valves both read about 1.1K Ohms and are within 10% of each other.

My next step seems to replace the water valve out of desparation, followed by a new machine control board?

Any ideas?
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Tuesday, May 30, 2006 - 9:38 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I guess the 1st question I have is what do you mean by "odd times"? Hammering could be caused by the valve or the house plumbing.
Replacing R11 and triac is not the correct repair and is not recommended, ever. Often other damage is done to the board that cause other problems.
I would recommend replacing the machine board before replacing the valve.
Before we can offer anymore help we need a model and serial number.
Next message Brian schaefer (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Friday, June 02, 2006 - 10:03 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi I posted a problem mid-April and a couple of guys gave me some ideas, but they did not pan out. I have a MDE4000AYW (wrong modle last time) that will quit during the fill cycle, and turn off. It may quit at other times, but I wouldn't know as I have not gotten that far. If I keep my finger on the start switch (momentary type) it will continue; ie if I want to drain it to get it out of the house, I set it to spin mode, keep my finger on the start switch and it will drain. Once I let go of the switch it will turn off. I've got a new switch, but as it is a momentary switch, it can not be the problem. There is a self holding circuit that is being interupted. I've tried everywhere to get a real schematic, but can only find a simple wiring diagram. Any ideas as to the problem, or where I can get a schamatic? Thanks in advance, Brian
Next message Mamlin R (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Thursday, June 08, 2006 - 12:26 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Wow - great info here! I'm DIY my own issue with a MAH5500BWW (ser#74...) with burnt lower board (fuse blown, R19 burnt, R20 & R21 looking bad). Purchased in 2001 with no probs till now. This forum has convinced me I definitely need new lower board + motor -- now I can drop $165 on a kit without -completely- feeling like I'm gambling with my money.

Here's a link to the kit I'll order in the next few days (based purely on best price I've found):
http://misterappliance.com/12002039.html

My only concern is that the replacement control board assembly looks nothing like my original lower board -- is this something I should worry about?

Thanks again for maintaining this forum and all the great info posted over the past few years!
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Thursday, June 08, 2006 - 7:44 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
>That is the correct kit, Its a complete conversion.
Next message gary gittings (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, June 18, 2006 - 10:49 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hello,
I have a Maytag Neptune MAH5500AWW that was purchased in 2000. The unit won't agitate, spin, or drain very well. It shuts off after a brief time being on.The motor diagnostic test fails, the JP-4 plug has 120v in delay mode, the 10a fuse checks with good continuity. The on light, the door lock light, and delay light appear to function properly. A manual advance of the cheesy non-positive feedback -of -a- timer yields a running drain pump while indicating spin mode on the knob.I too got my carrot waxed by Maytag, then my motor....must be why it's class action.Despite my crankyness over the subject, I would like to repair this unit and recoup some more from my $1000.00 zoot capri washer, that makes esquires
wallets all that much heavier, while i get my motor waxed!Any help would be greately appreciated.
Next message gary gittings (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, June 19, 2006 - 10:58 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Alas! have found burnt resistors and ic's on motor controller board. Maker upper forensics tells me the fail mode occured during blu/blk winding selection, IC 1 and several power resistors surrounding IC 1 have had the smoke escape from them, i understand they don't work properly if that happens. The local lightning from alberto storm coincided with the maytag on strike. no pun intended!Local appliance parts house says $245 for motor "kit", including motor and controller.How about you two fisted guys with experience in such matters? With lawsuit, faulty parts, no credit from maytag after filing a claim.....should I go for this?What else is awaiting replacement, or , should I replace to keep this machine for the next 10 years.?? Should I just chuck everything and go fishing? (or buy an LG frontloader?)Thanks for bearing with me while I rant (feel better already!)
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Monday, June 19, 2006 - 9:28 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Since it is only 6 years old I would replace the motor and motor board. I dont know where you are located, but the motor may have a 10 year warranty. The motor is bad and cause the board to go. Get the motor under warranty. Depending on the serial # it comes as the motor and board kit.
Next message Ron in Cali (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, June 20, 2006 - 11:40 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
My MAH3000AWW s/n 18144225SZ bites the big one, ofcourse after the deadlines for Maytag help. My Hot water valve continually fills, shutting off only after the door is opened or supply water valve is turned off, as previously mentioned in another thread. My current concern is that there is a microswitch at the bottom of the tub that is just hanging there. Is this some sort of tub balance sensor? If so, where do I mount it? I also found the water pressure switch located in the top cover near the control board, that was just hanging inside and also not mounted. Could this of contributed to my water issue problem? Thanks for the help and the forum. GBY
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Tuesday, June 20, 2006 - 7:42 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Just the hot water? It the pressure switch and pressure hose is not mounted correctly it may cause water level issues, however both hot and cold fill would be a issue. The bottom out of ballance switch should be mounted to the tub.
Next message Ron in Cali (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, June 21, 2006 - 3:02 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I'll mount the switches (tub and water pressure)and recheck unit. Not sure if it was just one, or both valves. Haven't seen the tub swich installed, is there any trick in mounting it to the tub?
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Thursday, June 22, 2006 - 10:09 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
no special trick to mounting the switch as long as where it mounts is not broken.
Next message Chris Mavrelis (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Wednesday, June 28, 2006 - 4:50 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I am looking to buy an MDE4000AYW Neptune dryer. Posted today, 6/28/06. Please contact at Cmavrelis@aol.com
Next message johnnyb (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, July 02, 2006 - 1:03 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a MAH3000AWW which is over 10 years old. It stopped spinning so I took the front door latch apart. There is a microswitch on the opposite side of the latch from the wax motor and "door locked light" microswitch. When I closed that switch, the machine spins fine. What does this switch control? There doesn't appear to be a part that contacts this switch so I'm guessing a part broke off. Also the door lock is never engaging so will check for voltage tomorrow to see if I have the R11/Q6 issue. Searched on Internet and looks like the door latch assembly has been discontinued. Any ideas on to fix without bypassing this switch?
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Sunday, July 02, 2006 - 8:52 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
There is a small ramp on the bottom of the door latch. if that is worn down the hook on the door will not activate one of the switchs. the wax motor expands and pushes the center ram to the right to close the other switch.
If r11 is burned on the control board, replace the control board and the wax motor. all latch parts are availible, just not as one assy.
Next message TreyPHX (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Wednesday, July 05, 2006 - 9:11 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a MAH3000AWW which is over 10 years old like everyone else. It has three problems: 1)cold water does not flow, hot works well. 2) It does not completly drain 3) I don't have the manual to figure out how to open the top to replace parts.

I checked the board and it looks fine. I want to get to the valves to check out. I took off the back and now a ground wire with a U shape is dangling and not sure where it was connected before.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Sunday, July 09, 2006 - 8:32 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
\/--\/--\/-- >remove the 4 screws around the door (2 in hinges, 2 on the other side. Then the front panel swings down. Remove the upper most 5/16 bolts and the greening brackets, remove the 4 screws in the dispensor. Now the top will swing up.. The water valve is in the left rear. Goo
Next message novicehelp (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Friday, July 14, 2006 - 12:55 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Roy,

How do I get to the Wax motor and the control board in a MAH4000AWW washer? I expected to be able to just use a putty knife to push on some clips but had no luck. Sorry about the novice question.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Friday, July 14, 2006 - 7:00 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
To get to the wax motor see My last post.
The machine control board is behind the control panel, pull the washer out and you will see the screws the hole the rear cover on the control panel.
Next message novicehelp (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Saturday, July 15, 2006 - 2:22 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thanks Roy,

My Neptune is up and running again! What is the PHA kit that everyone refers to and how do I get one?
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Saturday, July 15, 2006 - 5:34 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
PHA kit is nolonger avalible
Next message nolucksofar (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Saturday, July 15, 2006 - 8:07 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi Roy,

My MAH4000AWW did not spin. I replaced my control board and the wax motor. The R11 reisistor was definitely burned as I noted in several web postings. When I use the machine the door does lock and the "Door Lock" light activates but it still does not spin. Any suggestions?
Next message Holly (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Saturday, July 15, 2006 - 10:12 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Ia hve a Question about my maytag nepune maw3000aww.
WE fixed the r11 and the door wax motor. but the q6 was not blown. but i am still having trouble with the lock light to come on. can anyone help?
Thank you!
Next message Water Overflow (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 12:49 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a MAH5500BWW and it recently started overfilling. The washer stops filling when power is removed, so is it safe to assume the fill valve is ok? From my research it seems the fill valve, control board, or pressure switch could be at fault. What is the easiest way to troubleshoot this issue? Any known issues with this model overfilling the tub?
Next message Tina N (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 5:28 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi, I just bought a house with a Maytag Neptune and the boot in it is moldy and smelly. I want to replace the boot - but my question is, does the part come with instructions as to how to do this? Do I need to hire someone to do it it, or can I do it myself? Does anyone have instructions they can post or send me? I'd really appreciate it - if I can do this myself, that would be great, but I'm not really a Do-it-yourselfer!
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 8:07 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
>The boot can be replaced but it not easy and is hard to do. I would not recommend it for a >Do-it-yourselfer. I recommend you clean the boot with bleach and hot water. >
Next message mikem (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 2:27 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Maytag needs to read this board. My MAH3000AWW, 8 years old, during a service call in 2002 about mold, service guy replaced (under warrantee after speaking to his boss) the boot, door latch assembly(Wax motor) and Machine Control board. Even though he was only there for the mold problem. Think they knew about the problem? The service guy even left the original (still good) machine board. Now the (reluctance) motor and motor control baord have failed (no tumble or spin, door locks, tub fills and drains). Maytag put us in contact with a distributor who claims they will supply kit 12002039 Motor and controller under the 10 year warrantee, but they don't have the instructions. does anyone have the instructions for this conversion kit?

Settlement of Class action is a joke, all I got was a mail in rebate for $400 towards a top loader.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 8:37 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
The instructions should be in the box.
To sum it up Romove the old motor, motor mount bushings, motor contoler and the wiring harness between the motor and motor controler. These will not be used again. Install the new motor and motor bushings. Install the motor controler. Attach the wiring harness between the motor and controler. attach th machine wiring to the motor controler. The wires will only fit in one place.
Next message Mikem (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, July 31, 2006 - 9:30 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thanks Roy, Installation was simple. Previous post discussed line voltage connector where connection reversed wiring color, I did the same as he did, ground off the tabs on the connector so the wire colors matched up.

Why is anyone paying for the motor kit? The only item that has a decent warrentee (10yr) is the motor, and Maytag just gave me one. Cost would have been over $200.
Next message Susan S. (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Wednesday, August 02, 2006 - 2:23 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi,
I have a Maytag Neptune 5500AWW. The serial number is 61764213YU (6 yr old). The water is not draining in any cycle. Could it be the water pump or the control panel? Maybe something else?Please help. Do you know where I can purchase a repair manual?
Next message Rob S. (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, August 02, 2006 - 9:24 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi Roy,
I have a 5 year old MAH4000AWW (serial number 5870923OYS)(purchased at Sears scratch and dent) that has started to act up. Same old problem: Press start...seems to work...come back in 10 min...machine stopped. Our current work-around is to spin the dial a few times and hit start. Most times this works, but I have to face reality...it needs to get fixed. Since we bought our machine 'dented', we knew nothing of the class action suit. No upgrades or repairs that I know of. I'm willing to replace everything you think I need to in order to get another 5 years of service.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Wednesday, August 02, 2006 - 9:38 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Please dont direct questions to one person. We dont mind answering when we have time and the answer, but when you direct a question to one member, others may not respond. With that said, clean or replace the water valve. The unit will shutdown if it does not fill in time.
Next message Susan S. (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, August 03, 2006 - 2:13 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi,
I have a Maytag Neptune washer model MAH5500AWW (serial #61764213YU). It is 5 years old and will not drain any water from the drum. This happens during all types of cycles. Could it be the water pump, or anything else. I would also like to purchase a repair manual if you know where I could purchase one please let me know. Thanks}}
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Thursday, August 03, 2006 - 8:40 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
It may just be some thing in the pump.
Next message Susan S. (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, August 03, 2006 - 9:25 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thank You for your prompt reply,
I was wondering if there should be a pumping sound when the control knob is in the drain position. I do not hear any noise that comes close to water pumping at all. In fact it is very quiet. Would you still suggest that something could be in the pump with no noise or that the pump could be out? Also, exactly how do I check to see if anything is in the pump. I am not sure where the pump is located.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Thursday, August 03, 2006 - 10:03 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
WARNING: ALL EDGES ARE VERY SHARP AND WILL EASLY CAUSE VERY SEROUS CUTS!!!! -- ALL RISK IS YOURS --
UNPLUG WASHER
Open the door, take the 4 screws from around the door frame (2 in the hinge, 2 on the other side. The frame can now be pulled foreward and down. Might have to wigle it a bit. It will now lift off the 2 lower clips. Drain pump is on the bottom just a little to the right of center with 2 hoses. Not a easy or safe thing to get at.
Next message Bob Lincoln (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Thursday, August 10, 2006 - 10:14 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have an MAH5500BWW washer, S/N 69760537ZH, purchased April 2001. A recent lightning storm took out the motor control board (10A fuse, IC3 MOSFET driver IC, and a diode in front of Q6). The board is model AA20630 and P/N 6 2713980. From this board, and from looking at parts places online, is it correct that I need to replace the motor and the motor control board with a conversion kit? The motor is fine, ohms out at 1.8 ohms across each of the 3 windings.

The motor is still under warranty, but it's good; lightning killed the board. So I don't believe the warranty will cover it. Anyway, the service call will be $143. I can just about buy the kit for that, and the machine is already open. Can anyone confirm that I need the conversion kit? Thanks.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Thursday, August 10, 2006 - 11:26 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
>You can get the kit and install it yourself it your somewhat handy. Make sure the instructions are in the box before you take it, and watch out all the metal edges are VERY SHARP.
Next message J. D. Bennett (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, August 15, 2006 - 6:15 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a Maytag Dryer that won't heat; runs, tumbles OK but just won't heat. Model number is MDE4000AYW, SN 31440667YU. Any suggestion on repair/trouble shooting? Also, any directions on how to disassemble this model?
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Tuesday, August 15, 2006 - 10:14 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
This is an electric dryer.
Make sure a temp is selected.
Make sure you have 220v at the terminal block in the dryer.
Next check the heater.
Next message Graham Parker (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Saturday, August 26, 2006 - 12:16 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a MAH3000 purchased in 1997. The first one in my city (actually second since the first one failed (controller dead) after 2 days!).

It's received the control board upgrade and door kit a few years ago and I did receive compensation from Maytag as part of the class action. I have also recently installed a .5 amp fuse in the wax motor circuit to protect the control board. Sure enough, the fuse blew. Replaced it, and the wax motor, and machine works ok -- except now it will not shut off at the end of cycle. It continues to rotate the drum (back and forth) continuously--for hours until we hit the off button.
Does this sound like a control board problem? The repair man checked out the board and found no obvious burned components.

If it's a control board problem, I will simply replace it for less than $200 (easy repair).
Next message larry burks (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, August 27, 2006 - 12:55 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a mah5500bww neptune washer. There are 2 symptoms I know of: 1) once the timed cycle gets down to 8 minutes it will go back to 9 minutes and goes back and forth between 8 & 9 about a minute apart. 2) Hence, it never completes the final cycle of spinning the water from the clothes. Purchased on 3-3-03, not heavily used, just my wife and I. Any thoughts?

Sincerely,

L. Burks
Next message Rodger Will (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, September 03, 2006 - 8:54 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
This is a great resource... I have a different problem than the "no spin" motor/controller failure. Been there done that... Maytag replaced my board and wax motor in June 2004. My problem now is thae unit will not stop, and it appears that the flow from the fabric softener dispenser has stopped. When a cycle ends, the signal beeps and the lights turn off, but the unit automatically starts the next cycle. If I go to the unit when it beeps, I press the button to stop it and it stops. It is a Superstack MHW2000HWW Serial Number 40382895WH. Thanks!
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Monday, September 04, 2006 - 3:19 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Rodger:
Does it actualy start over again including filling and washing or does it just tumble until you push the button? If the later then most likely the door lock switch is stuck. It will tumble until the switch is released.
Next message Rodger Will (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, September 04, 2006 - 4:38 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
It indeed starts filling and washing... Very strange. I have to stop it with the button, or else it locks again and washes.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Monday, September 04, 2006 - 11:31 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
My 1st thought is timer.
Next message Rodger Will (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Tuesday, September 05, 2006 - 8:11 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Will this explain the lack of flow through the Fabric softener amd bleach dispensers? Also... I was doing several searches for the timer part number, but have been unsuccessful. Thanks Again!
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Tuesday, September 05, 2006 - 8:48 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
22002452 is the washer timer your model is MHW2000"A"WW
Next message Rodger Will (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Wednesday, September 06, 2006 - 7:24 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I changed out the timer, and that was not the problem. Same symptoms. Any other Ideas?
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Thursday, September 07, 2006 - 10:49 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Anything at this point is a guess.
Next message Shak (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 6:14 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi Roy,

We have a Maytag Model MAH5500BWW Neptune Washer. Great machine, until the controller board went out. SEARS came by and charged us $69 to diagnose the problem. Ordered a Motor/Controller Board Conversion Kit as I have noticed on the postings that this is the best option. Cost me $234.00. I still think I can repair the board since I have tech. on my business who is an Electronic Guru. My question, even if someone who knows what they are doing, is it worth repairing the board as a backup? Motor was fine, but SEARS said we need to get the entire conversion kit. Our Serial Number of the maching is 69784500ZH and the model number of old controller board is AA20830 (p/n 62713980). Are wiring diagrams available for the old controller board?
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 8:00 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I don't know not being there if the board or the motor is the real problem. If the motor is bad it has a 10 year warranty. read above posts.
The new motor is much better, but requires the new controller. I would not bother trying to repair the old board.
Next message david (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Friday, September 22, 2006 - 9:21 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a maytag MLG 2000AWW washer/dryer. The washer does not go into high spin. The washer failed previously when it would not spin and empty, R11 was burned. Maytag replace the control board and I think the lock assembly with a new boot seal. I have inspected the control board and R11 looks to be ok. Any suggestions? Once in a while it will go high spin, maybe?
Next message Susie (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Saturday, September 23, 2006 - 2:50 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Have a Maytage Neptune MAH3000 front load washer purchased in 1998. Has worked great until this week (didn't have the mold problem). The door lock light is no longer working and the water is not being extracted from the clothes, so I guess it's not spinning. Appears I may have the same "R11/Control Board/Wax Motor" problem I've read about on this site and others. I have a repairman scheduled to come out this Thursday. His rate is $60 for first 30 minutes and then $10 for each additional 15 minutes. Assuming this is my problem, how long do you estimate this repair would take? And then with the cost of the parts, do you recommend putting that much money into a unit that is 8 years old? Also, will I do additional harm if I continue to use the washer (and wring things out by hand)? Appreciate your assistance!
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Sunday, September 24, 2006 - 10:09 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Susie,, less then a hour on the repair. I do think it is worth the repair as long as the rest of the machine is fine.
Next message Susie (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, September 25, 2006 - 9:03 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thank you for your comment Roy! Appreciate your input. Have a good day.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Monday, September 25, 2006 - 8:47 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Your welcome
Next message Luong Nguyen (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 12:18 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Wow, I am so glad I found this page, which is not the easiest thing. Here to the experts...

My MAH5500BWW, S/N 71782275ZK quit working two days ago, no tumbling, no spinning. All things point to the motor control and sure enough I found a few black spots on the board around 11 o'clock, 1/2 inch from the perimeter. It seems that the 12002039 kit would fix the problem but I do want to hear some vote of confidence from the experts.

Thank you in advance,
Luong Nguyen
Next message Luong Nguyen (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 12:20 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Here are some info obtained from the service menu that I could not post in the same post:

- The Help codes in reverse chronological order are 19, 13, 48, 19, 13, 08, 21, 47, 19.

- The Diagnostic codes in the same order are 06, 08, 16, 16, 17, 17, 08, 08. Some of these codes may be a result of my playing around trying to check its behavior.

- I cleared the codes and tried a Board Output -> Motor Control test but it came up with nothing. I may be impatient and quit the test before it completed.

- In Tumble cycle nothing happened but in Spin cycle I heard some sound, was it the pump at work?

Thanks,
Luong
Next message Luong Nguyen (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Wednesday, September 27, 2006 - 10:47 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Update: I got a drive motor kit from Maytag service center and now it is up and running.
One note: neither Maytag nor the service center people volunteered the 10 year replacement warranty information but when asked, it was rather simple to get the new part. Though no one has a chance to answer my questions, the info in this thread had helped me tremendously, thanks.
Next message Guest (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 11:02 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I just purchased a house that had an MAH5500BWQ (lucky me!) It works well but the darn thing stinks of mildew. The drum boot is soooo permeated with mildew that a 1:1 bleach solution won't put a dent in it. I understand that though difficult to replace it can be done. I live in rural Alaska so having a repairman fix it is not an option. Any special tricks or recommendations?

Thanks,

Bill
Next message mark lawson (Mark1464)   posted on Monday, October 09, 2006 - 1:00 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
you be able to find a servicer through Maytag.com and you may want to consider looking at the lawsuit information as well. It deals with the mildew issue. Replacing the boot will not resolve the issue unless you replace the front tub cover. A kit may be available depending on the first two digits of the serial number
Next message Staho (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Tuesday, October 17, 2006 - 10:36 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I also have the Maytage Neptune MAH4000AWW washer, now less a control board, both R11 & Q6 shot. Purchased in 1999 or there abouts, we complanted to Maytag about a sour smell. Their fix was to make the last load of the day whites and use bleach to stop the smell. Is there a modification or some thing that will fix the smell? Looks like I need to replace the control board along with the door lock and wax motor. I would like to know why these parts went bad? From what I find on the net this machine is a lemon. Not sure if I want to spend the $$ to fix it or not, the repair bill will pay half of a new machine.
Next message Jay Allen (Jay)   posted on Tuesday, October 17, 2006 - 10:51 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
The control board went bad because of a failure of a component of the door lock assembly called a wax motor. THe odor is caused by a door boot which does not drain properly and inadequate venting of the tub when the unit is not on.

The fix, at this point, is to install a PHA kit. It includes a new door vent kit, a new front tub cover with seal, a new control board, and a new wax motor. When we do one of these, we charge about $450. In fact, we are doing another one tomorrow. The kit itself retails for about $225, and it takes me about an hour and a half to do. And I have done dozens of them.
Next message Staho (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Tuesday, October 17, 2006 - 11:18 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thanks for the info Jay, where can I get a PHA kit? I don't see any problem changing the controler board. I feel sure I can handle the wax motor and front tub cover with seal too. Will I need to buy any other parts or does the kit have all the parts I need?
Next message Norman Hochfeld (Hochfeldnb)   posted on Wednesday, October 18, 2006 - 10:39 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
The kit that Jay was describing ads some needed ventilation on the door, more drainage holes for the boot, and the new Machine Control that you will buy, will have some improved programming for rinsing and draining. You will have to change the door lock wax motor and the machine control board. You may be able to save the other hardware changes if you follow below.
Oh! That Smell! I have been recommending a fix for a while to my customers but first there is some background info.
Most front load washers have no way to actively rinse the tub and sump. The water is drained out before it spins. Excessive soap cannot be effectively rinsed out. The smell is caused from the left-over soap residue and sludge that is putrifying in the sump of the machine. Wash water starts to putrify after sitting still for a couple of days. The mildew is a plant that grows in moist climates. Only liquid chlorene bleach (not the thick or all fabric type)is effective in killing the mold and smell from the decaying sludge.
Note: The liquid bleach dispenser is not used in this procedure.
MOLD REMOVAL FROM THE BOOT:
Mold is black in color and is raised slightly above the rubber and feels slimey to the touch. Take some "Tilex with Bleach" and spray liberally on all boot surfaces. Let stand for awhile. Using a paper towel that is soaked in Tilex briskly rub all of the moldy surfaces of the boot. Do this several times until the mold is killed and removed. Once removed, there may be a stain on the boot rubber. This will lighten over time.
Make sure that the drain holes are clear of lint and debris. Perform the next "SMELL" step to rinse before using machine.
SMELL CONTROL:
Set the machine for the maxium wash time and an extra rinse. While the water is filling for the wash add 1 quart (4-cups) of bleach to the soap dispenser. Allow the machine to complete the cycle.
CHECK OUT:
After the cycle rub the boot accross the mold stains that remain and your finger should squeek. (Squeekly Clean). The machine will smell fresh.
Each time when you are done with washing for the day, wipe out and dry the boot with a paper towel.
Maytag recommends a product called "Washer Magic" that can be used once a month thereafter if you do not want to continue to use bleach... but, I find that bleach is cheaper and more effective.
OOPS!! Do not use this procedure if you have a septic system as it may kill the bacteria in the septic. Use only the "Washer Magic" after the Tilex is used to rinse the machine.
Next message Howard (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, October 26, 2006 - 11:53 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi,

We have a MAH5500BWW (SN 10770694yz) that cratered in mid-cycle. I've checked the console circuit board and the motor controller board and there are no fried resistors, triacs, or fuses; everything looks brand new inside.

The machine stopped in mid-cycle and will fill, lock, and that's about it. I've tried the Service Mode > Quick Service Cycle and the machine doesn't tumble, turn the drain on, or spin fast (spin test showed 19/20 rpm). The diagnostic codes are 17, 03, 03.

By process of elimination I think that it's a problem with the pump (won't drain) and maybe the motor (won't tumble). Am I on the right track, or is there something else that I'm missing?

thanks in advance,
Howard
Next message Howard (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Friday, October 27, 2006 - 12:25 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi again,

Reading through another thread I found someone with similar problems... a washer that won't drain and a laundry sink full of wet rugs.

Pulled the pump yesterday and it was clogged with some of the rubber backing from a rug the wife washed. Not a whole lot, just enought to make it not run. Never had this problem with the old machine. O well, at least it was a cheap fix, just an hour of my time. Thanks again and have a great day.

This sounds to me like the culprit, and to quote Roy it's "ti
me to get wet".
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Friday, October 27, 2006 - 6:07 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thanks for the follow up.
Next message Kevin Mazerolle (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, October 30, 2006 - 11:06 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have the MAH3000AWW washer. I had the blown R11 and Q6 Triac. I replaced the control board and the wax motor. The door now stays continually locked and the washer doesn't stop at the end of it's cycles - it just starts up again. Any idea what I need to do now?
Next message AlanC (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, October 30, 2006 - 10:59 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I also have a MAH3000AWW and I bought a 22002989 control board. I did replace the wax motor, but I am afraid to run the machine because I found out the control board I needed is 22002988. Does anyone know if the 2989 will work with a 3000? They look almost identical and it hooked right in? ANY help would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks!
Next message Norman Hochfeld (Hochfeldnb)   posted on Monday, October 30, 2006 - 11:35 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
There are some wiring and sensor changes. The programming is different. The unit will not work properly. I did that once by mistake and the unit did not work properly.
Next message Norman Hochfeld (Hochfeldnb)   posted on Monday, October 30, 2006 - 11:40 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Kevin: Check the wiring to the control board. Be sure it is a 22002988 board. Be sure the lock was assembled properly and the micro switches in the lock are OK.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Tuesday, October 31, 2006 - 12:21 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
There are 2 different machine control boards for the 3000. ser 17 and above use 22002988, 22002989 will not work correctly.
12001725 is used before ser 17
Next message Lori Wahl (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Sunday, November 12, 2006 - 3:36 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Help! 6 months pregnant with the 3rd and loads of laundry to do. My Neptune washer MAH5500BWW controls are locked. I can only wash under the hot / cold, light-load settings. I've tried to "reboot" by pushing the off buttom (no effect), so I've unplugged the machine and plugged it back in after a few minutes. Still no effect. Is this going to require a service call, or is there some secret trick or button I can push? More broadly, after reading the postings on this board, I'm afraid I've ought a lemon. Is this true?
Next message Norman Hochfeld (Hochfeldnb)   posted on Wednesday, November 15, 2006 - 10:23 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Congratulations on your baby. Welcome to the world of Neptune. It would be advisable to have a service technician check this out. Your unit was the best Neptune in that series made. The main board may still be under warranty. Call the number found on your machine to check it out.
Next message Linda Hartwig (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, November 20, 2006 - 2:36 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a MAH5500BWW serial 73942410ZU washer.
I sent in my registration card they had my Name, Address, Phone, Model number, serial number, and dealer but, they never notified me about the law suite because the purchase date was not entered.
It will run and latch the door properly but stops during the spin cycle and display an 'Lr' error code. The door will remain locked even when the machine is unplugged. It takes 5 to 10 minutes for the door to unlock, the cloths are very soggy.
I removed the Motor control board and there is definate burn marks around R19 and R20. This part looks different from the photos I've seen on the net.
I simply cannot deal with Maytag service I spent from 6am to 8:50am on the phone was hung up on twice and never got any answers to my questions.
Maytag estimates are $380. I can't afford this.
What are my options?
Next message Jay Allen (Jay)   posted on Monday, November 20, 2006 - 3:25 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
You will not get any other answers from Maytag. Since you were not part of the settlement class, you are excluded from receiving anything from them, as it is a court order.

The symptom you have, coupled with the serial number you provided, indicates the need for a new motor and motor control kit. It is an expensive repair, but there is no other option at this point. The parts have been completely redesigned, and this problem has been permanently solved.
Next message Luong Nguyen (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, November 22, 2006 - 1:46 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Aren't the motor and motor control kit covered under the 10-year warranty? Maytag gave me a free replacement. If you are able to check the failed board, chances are you can replace the motor and kit yourself.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Wednesday, November 22, 2006 - 11:55 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
The Motor has a 10 part warranty, not the board. However the new motor requires the new board. the ser break is in the 80's so this is the old motor and board. The board damage in this case is a bad motor so ordering the motor will get the conversion kit and the "parts" would be under the warranty, but not labor.
Next message Paul Jensen (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 6:39 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a MAH5500AWW Neptune washer front loader (SN 34725719EA) that seems to be over-filling and forcing the door open enough to gush water out the front. When I hit OFF, the door unlocks and blasts the rest of the water out the front.
What can we do to fix this?
This unit came with the house we bought 6 months ago and house is only 2 years old. Don't know where receipt would be, but might be able to track down from original owner.
It drains, spins, washes, etc. fine, but at some point just keeps filling and dumps gallons of water on the floor until we get water shut off.
Thanks
Next message Norman Hochfeld (Hochfeldnb)   posted on Friday, December 15, 2006 - 1:36 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Paul- The unit is overfilling due to a blocked pressure hose AND/OR a defective pressure switch. When there is some water in the tub (a gallon or two) (unplug the machine) disconnect the pressure hose from the pressure switch and see if you can blow into the sump through it (you should hear bubbling). If not, it is blocked. If you cannot clear it (try wire rodding) you must replace it. This is a difficult operation for an experienced person. If the line is unrestricted, replace the pressure switch and follow the directions included in the box. Make sure the unit was on spin and got all the testing water out of the sump before you start the machine in cycle for re-testing. If it still overflows and has a clear hose from the sump and has a new pressure switch, then there is a wiring problem or you will need a new machine control board. The mini service manual with the diagrams is in the rear of the console. Good hunting.
Next message Robert Cox (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Wednesday, December 20, 2006 - 3:38 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
We have a Maytag Neptune FAV6800 top loader washer, purchased December 2005. When doing a small load with the Hand Wash setting, we get a UC (Cannot Spin) code before the spin cycle. At this point there is still water in the tub. The owner's manual does say that "very small loads (one or two items) may become unbalanced and not spin out completely." When adding towels to make this a medium load, we get a DC code (Unbalanced Load). Redistributing the load does not help; it sounds like the agitator (in this case, two spinning disks in the tub) repeatedly try to redistribute the load and then stop with the DC code. We have an extended warranty; so far, service techs tried replacing the balance sensor, and have simply suggested larger loads. But even as I write this, while doing a "Normal" setting wash, we're getting a DC condition with a large load. Any ideas?
Next message Rob Poe (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Wednesday, December 20, 2006 - 11:16 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a Neptune MAH5500BWW (or is it BBW). Serial # 85994627AE. Motor control board burnt at R26 (and the chip above it is blown in two).

Is this the motor AND control board kit, or just the motor kit. Do I need to test the motor to see if it's bad, and is it covered under the 10 year replacement?

If it is, who do I contact? Maytag cust service was anything but helpful.
Next message Roy Murray (Roy)   posted on Thursday, December 21, 2006 - 8:14 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
> 5 year warranty on the motor. By serial number you need the moto/controler kit 12002039.
Next message Rob Poe (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Thursday, December 21, 2006 - 11:58 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Roy - good news!

Called Maytag today, and mentioned the warranty on the motor. They referred me to the local Maytag parts dealer - called them and gave them the serial / model / faxed them the proof of purchase and they said to remove the old motor / control board and bring them in for a replacement.. Under warranty.

Pulled the motor and did a quick impedance test on it. 4.6 4.2 and open on the 3 pairs (inner, middle, outer).

Crossing my fingers - btw there's a guy on eBay right now selling motor / control boards for $100...
Next message Rob Poe (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, January 01, 2007 - 3:25 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Just an update. Got the motor / control board. Installed them and all is well!!!
Next message Coleman Randall (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Tuesday, January 02, 2007 - 9:57 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have an MAH3000AWWW.

Question 1 (smell): Maytag sent a technician out a few years ago to replace a logic board and door seal due to mold/mildew problems, but they still occurred, Maytag suggested we wipe the door seal and tub dry after the last load of the day, but that became too much work, so now we just unplug the washer and leave the door open. (Unplugging it keeps the light bulb from burning out). Is there any reason not to do this, or to perform the steps in the post from Wednesday, October 18, 2006 - 10:39 pm instead?
Next message Coleman Randall (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Tuesday, January 02, 2007 - 9:59 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have an MAH3000AWWW.

Question 2 (fabric softener dispenser): For the past month or so, some fabric softener remains in the dispenser. This residue builds up and I have to clean out the gunk fairly often. It used to work fine. The machine activates the fabric softener dispenser during the rinse cycle -- water flows into it and it is mostly empty after the cycle ends. The siphon tube had been clogged with rust and debris from the unit, but even now that I've cleaned it all out and water seems to flow through the dispenser, the residue remains. What can I do?
Next message Yanick (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 8:32 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I'm about to buy a new Maytag Neptune MAH 5500 AWW. Should I consider buying an other brand?

Yanick
Next message Fred (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Saturday, January 13, 2007 - 3:56 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I had the exact same motor conversion kit problem that Joe Dodge described in this forum (below). My older Neptune does not have a blue 2 terminal connector, but a white one. I was able to force this connector to fit without filing by pressing hard. I connected it so white goes to white and black goes to black and the washer works again. This seemed like the right thing to do, but this is not the kind of thing you want to make a mistake on. I was glad to see the posts here to confirm this before I plugged the thing in.

-Fred

Joe Dodge wrote:
I have a Maytag Neptune MAH3000, S/N 181570555Y, and I've purchased the motor conversion kit for it. Everything was going together fine until the last step, which said 'Locate the blue 2 terminal connector on the main wire harness. Connect the blue main wire harness to the white connector from the AC line filter on the new motor control board.' Here's the rub, there is no blue connector ...
Next message Emerson (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, January 15, 2007 - 10:02 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a 1997 MAH3000AWW and recently replaced the tub bearings(cost $30 for the pair)and door boot. I installed the replacement boot with drain, but where, oh where, is the water supposed to drain? The drain nipple is outside the tub and water would just end up on the floor if I pulled the plug out of the boot. Am I just too stupid to figure this out?
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Monday, January 15, 2007 - 11:36 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
> We need a serial number and the part number of the boot you installed. >
Next message Emerson (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Tuesday, January 16, 2007 - 5:14 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
The serial number is 1711766350
Door boot part number 12002533

Thanks!
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Tuesday, January 16, 2007 - 7:44 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
you need tub cover part Number 22003212 to install the boot hose.
It would be easyer to just use a towel and dry the boot after the last use of the day.
Next message Emerson (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 6:17 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thanks that's the information I needed! My wife is not interested in mopping out the boot. She's done that for nearly 10 years. Very dissapointed by the design flaws of this expensive FL.

After pulling apart the machine and replacing the tub bearings (NOT recommended by Maytag - or for the faint of heart!) I'll bet I can coax a new tub cover into place. (been there - done that)

I assume I'll also need boot drain hose #22004477 and hose guard #22003074? Anything else? I have clamps.

I plan to put in a drive belt kit with new motor isolators. Any other parts I should change when I go back inside the beast?

The great news is I can do all of this for less than the cost of a service call. Not replacing the outer tub saved enough for a weekend getaway at a luxury hotel.

P.S. I gave you a 5 rating. Only because you deserve it...
Next message Theresa Garre (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Saturday, January 20, 2007 - 2:33 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I own a Neptune Washer MAH4000AWW Serial Number is 53305622YK. Purchased new many years ago and really haven't much go wrong with it until now. I noticed that when I want to wash in warm or hot water the washer starts, but no water enters the machine and then the machine will turn off. I found I can wash in cold no problem. Last night I tried again to use the warmer temp setting and no water entered the machine, but suddenly I had water leaking from the hot water hose where the hose connects to the machine. It seems water can't get through the valve and actually escapes from the hose connection due to the pressure. I'm afraid to use it now and have turned the water off totally to the machine. Wondered if I need to replace the water Valve?
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 9:02 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
There is a screen located on the inlet of the hot water inlet. It is probably filled with debris from your pipes and hot water heater. If you take a very small screwdriver you can pry out the screen at the edges so you do not damage it, clean it and re-insert it into the valve. Clean out the body; flush it by squirting some water at it. Make sure you do not trap any debris behind the screen when you re-install it. You will need to run the hot water to clean out the hose and line before you re-attach it to the machine. Replace the hose washer with a new neoprene one from the hardware store. You should have no leaking and the hot water should work again. Of course you could always replace the water valve if you don't want to clean the old one. But replace those washers on the hoses! Neoprene (Black)...Not Rubber (red).
Next message Theresa Garre (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 11:43 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thank you for the information. I will try it later today. I currently have the Neoprene hose and washer.
Next message Emerson (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 7:10 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Anyone have any suggestions for other parts I should probably replace when I change out the tub cover and drive belt? We'd like to run this machine for at least another 5 years - longer if possible.

Thanks!
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Wednesday, January 24, 2007 - 10:13 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
> I only change parts that are worn or broken.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Thursday, February 01, 2007 - 12:19 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I was reading over your posting and I just had to ask. Why are you replacing the tub cover and drive belt. The tub cover usually only needs to be replaced iif the lint catching brush looses all of its bristles. The belt only needs to be replaced for excessive squeeking. These are not usual maintenance items. Actually, in a Neptune there are no maintenance items to be replaced. The boot and the dispenser must be cleaned regularly. There is enough that goes wrong with the unit that replacement parts will solve. Maintenance replacement of parts on a Neptune won't get it to run any longer.
Next message Emerson (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Friday, February 02, 2007 - 11:26 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
See my first post on Monday, January 15, 2007 - 10:02 pm: I installed the door boot with drain and need the later tub cover with molded nipples to run the drain hose from the boot. I figured this is how it was supposed to drain so I drilled a hole in my original tub cover and ran rubber fuel line hose from the boot, but it leaked a bit. Probably could have made it work, but wanted to do it right. Roy gave me the correct part number for the tub cover. The parts just came today, so I'll swap 'em out this weekend.

See the Saturday, February 18, 2006 posts regarding drive belt/bushings: I've had the belt off twice already and for $18 I decided to go ahead and replace the belt & bushings. I'm beginning to enjoy tearing into this machine and I guess I'm just looking for modifications to improve performance. Must be the old hot-rodder in me!
Next message Ron Folse (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, February 05, 2007 - 7:15 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Maytag Neptune stackable washer continues to fill with controls off. It flooded our floors... had to move the machine to reach the water faucets to turn off. Also, when spinning the tub by hand, water swoshes... apparently the water is not completely draining out. Can someone suggest how to repair? Thanks... Ron
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Monday, February 05, 2007 - 9:47 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
The water swosh on an empty tub is a normal thing. There is a special water inside the balance ring of the tub. It is that swosh you hear and the ring is sealed so that is normal, the tub is empty.
If the seat on the valve is not closing then water will leak through the valve even with no power.
Tearing into the Neptune takes some mechanical ability. You must know the procedure to take it apart or be able to figure it out. A stacked Neptune is even worse because you probably have to dismantle the dryer from the washer to get to the water valve. I recommend that a service professional be contacted to corect this issue for you.
Any further advice will require the exact Model and Serial Number.
Next message Colin Campbell (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, February 12, 2007 - 11:50 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Can anyone tell me what is included in a PHA kit and which one I would need? I cannot find details for the PHA kits anywhere.

When would I use one instead of getting the individual parts?

I have 2 machines:

MLG2000AWW , series 24
MAH4000AWW , Series 63

The MLG2000AWW has the door latch/burnedout r11 problem and will most likely need new wax motor, etc..

The other unit does not have any problems yet but should I replace the wax motor before it burns the board. It would be a $30 preventative measure as opposed to paying for a $300 board later.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Monday, February 12, 2007 - 8:21 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I am not familiar with the term PHA. Can you elaborate? You seem to have a handle on the problems... What do you need suggested? It's a Neptune.
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Monday, February 12, 2007 - 10:01 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
PHA kits are not available any more.
It was the boot and control board in one box.
Next message Colin Campbell (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 9:26 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Apparently, in Canada anyways, my parts suppliers say they have them in stock, (Part# 12002523, 12002524,etc.) but they dont have the information to spec the right one. They say the repair techs just give them the part numbers to order.

The PHA kit is only about $25 more than the wax motor and control board alone so I figured it might be economical to buy the PHA kit but I need help specifying the proper PHA kit for the MLG2000AWW, series 24. I am not even sure the PHA kit includes a wax motor.

The lack of information on the PHA kits to me almost suggests they were kits assembled to address known problems with Neptunes without admitting there were problems(secret recall?). From what I read on the WEB, it seems Maytag was even giving these things out for free until the were hit with the lawsuit. To this day Maytag denies there was ANYTHING wrong with Neptunes however it seems peculiar that so many Neptunes eventually need the same repair.
Next message Colin Campbell (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 9:44 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Norman,

Are you the same Norman that posted on Wednesday, October 18, 2006 - 10:39 pm:? Perhaps that will refresh your memory.

That is the kit I am refering to. I am asking for help getting the right part number for a MLG2000AWW, series 24 stacked unit. My parts supplier have the kits but cant tell me which one i need. They don't even know what the kit includes (It seems strange but true).
Next message Jay Allen   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 10:16 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Roy,

PHA kits ARE still available. We just installed one last week.

A PHA kit consists of four parts:

Machine Control Board
Wax Motor
Boot and Tub Cover Assembly
Inner Door Vent Kit

As far as I know, there are only two configurations of the PHA kit:

12002523 for the regulat front loads
12002525 for the stack units

Keep in mind that the PHA kit is intended to fix two problems:

1. You essentially retrofit the door to install a vent to allow air movement when the unit is off. This is to reduce mold. If your washer already has a door vent in it, YOU DO NOT NEED A PHA KIT.

2. The new boot and tub cover has a drain in it. The original Neptunes did not have a drain hole in the bottom of the boot. If your unit does have a drain hole, YOU DO NOT NEED A PHA KIT.

The availability of PHA kits was severely limited by Maytag, because servicers were ordering them and installing them when they were not needed.

If your only issue is the burned R11 resister, then all you need is a wax motor and a control board. If you have a unit AFTER series 58, you should not need to replace the wax motor, as the part had supposedly been updated by then.
Next message Jay Allen   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 10:22 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I guess I should clarify this again...

If your only issue is the burned R11 resister, and your washer already has a door vent and a boot with a drain, YOU DO NOT NEED A PHA KIT. The PHA kit was not designed to correct the burned R11 issue. It was designed, specifically, to deal with the MOLD issue.

This was a big problem for Maytag, as servicers were installing these kits inapporpriately.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 11:11 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Deleted per request of the poster.


(Message edited by pegi on February 13, 2007)
Next message Jay Allen   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 11:54 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Norman,

A boot enhancement kit is not the same as a PHA kit. That may be why you are confused. The boot enhancement kit consists of a new boot and a tub cover. A PHA kit consists of the new boot/tub cover assembly, the door vent kit, the control board and the was motor.

The kits you listed above have been gone for a long time. The kits I listed above were new in 2004. The old 2003 kits were not just discontinued, they were pulled from inventory. There was actually another generation between the numbers you listed and the current kits. I did a little checking, and it turns out that there are three current PHA kits:

12002523 is for stand alone units in bisque
12002524 is for stand alone units in whie
12002525 is for stack units

We have never installed a 12002524. We have installed 26 of the 12002523, including one last week. We have installed three of the 12002525.

The 12001533 is a new boot with drain ONLY. Does not include the tub cover. This replacement should only be used IF you have the cover that has the drain in it already.

The old kits you listed - 12001766 through 12001770 are two generations old. The 12001800 was the old stack unit boot enhancement kit, which now subs to the 12002525 stack unit PHA kit.

You are correct that the PHA kit is ONLY for 3000 and 4000 models.

PHA, for what it's worth, is only a Maytag product inspection code. They come up with them for the different issues they have. Whirlpool uses 5 digit numbers that start with a letter R, Maytag uses letter codes. I would guess it stands for something like Product Horizontal Axis, but I have no idea. Maytag usually does not define those things for us.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 12:01 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Jay:
I am trying to get Roy to delete that post. I have the complete and current information and I will re-post.
Next message Colin Campbell (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 1:21 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Norman, Roy and Jay in particular,

Thank you very much for taking the time to post the information. It was very helpful in determining whether I need the PHA kit or not. Maytag won't even admit there is a problem let alone help me solve it.

I usually don't replace parts if they "ain't broke" but in the case of the MAH4000AWW, series 63 that I have, I think I'll replace the wax motor before it eventually burns out R11/Q6 on the control board and cost me another $350 in parts alone.

Neptune owners thought they paid for a top of the line product but we have received bottom of the barrel treatment from the company. If Maytag was as helpful as you guys I wouldn't be thinking "I'll never buy or recommend another Maytag product ever again."

**The Maytag repairman is lonely because his phone isn't even connected**
Next message Jay Allen   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 2:30 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Colin,

Just to clarify, replacing the wax motor on your unit will probably not do much to help you, as they had been updated by series 63. However, it only costs $20, so live it up!

Just so everyone understands...

Maytag WAS helping customers with these issues once they figured out what they were. The problem, as I see it, is that some greedy attorneys decided to file a class action lawsuit. What this did was tie Maytag's hands. Even today, by court order, Maytag cannot even provide a no-charge part to someone who was not part of the settlement class.

These lawsuits are really hurting consumers like you, who did not get into the settlement class, it harms other people who have to pay more money for products so these settlements can be paid, and they even hurt those in the settlement class who had their repairs delayed as a result of the lawsuit.

Maytag has had a very long history of taking care of customers. You are not being screwed by Maytag, but by the attorneys who initiate these things without even having the appropriate information. For example, in this case, the lawsuit was filed before Maytag even knew how to fix the problem.

We are all screwing ourselves here. This stuff has to stop.
Next message Colin Campbell (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 5:56 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hello Jay,

Thanks for the additional info.

I don't understand why a court order would prevent Maytag from helping additional people but I will take your word for it and give Maytag the benefit of the doubt.

When I called Maytag about my problem they told me to call the lawsuit hotline. When I called the hotline, they said i missed the deadline to join the suit and to call Maytag. Bottom line, they both said they could do nothing to help me. Thus began my nightmare to find information.

This must be a public relations nightmare for Maytag and their silence (Court ordered?) isn't good for anybody. Even if they can't provide free parts,as I said in my previous post, I would have been happy with the information that you have provided. You have restored a bit of confidence I have in Maytag but I am sure there are still tens of thousands of lost customers.
Next message Colin Campbell (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 6:01 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
P.S.

I believed the updated motors have a black plunger so I will check to see if the series 63 indeed has an updated wax motor. like i said before, I usually don't replace parts if they "ain't broke".

Thanks again Jay

Colin
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 6:45 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I stand corrected on the availability of the PHA kits.
Next message Lori Mullen   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 6:52 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Boy o Boy we have just gone out on one of the washers. Smells,and noisy. I see that this has over 200 posts and tho I have read some and printed some, but now I am lost. Maytag also suggested we need to change the gasket too.(boot?). Had homeowner call Maytag as we no longer do their warranty. Also said they have mildew cleaner? Haven't noticed that here, but sure have not read all posts! Is this new?
Thanks all,
Lori
Next message Jay Allen   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 7:02 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Colin,

The thing about class action suits is that they exist for one and only one reason. Case in point: Silicon Gel Breast Implants.

This was a group of greedy attorneys who managed to extract well into 8 figures from DuPont because they claimed that leaking silicon gel was causing auto-imune reactions in women. This was never proven. However, a jury, based on the sympathetic argument from the attorneys, awarded the damages. The average woman who was part of the settlement class received less than $80.00. The attorneys involved received a collective $15 million.

The same thing happens here, as with all other class action lawsuits. In order for the attorneys to maximize their payment, certain things are stipulated. One interesting thing about class action suits...it is one of the few legal mechanisms by which people can lose their right to a claim, even a claim of negligence, without doing anything. Settlement documents for class action suits always stipulate that people who were not members of the class are not entitled to any damages under the class settlement, and that they cannot bring action again on the same issue. That is what happened here.

I advocate shooting attorneys who do such things.

This has become one of the most profitable areas of law. To demonstrate how popular they are, just do a google search on class action lawsuits. You will find attorneys all over the place who actually go through the trouble of advertising for victims. Chances are you have some item in your house that some attorney wants to start a class action lawsuit about.

You don't see very many of these about Whirlpool products. The reason is that Whirlpool is amazingly aggressive about heading them off. They will file cease and desist orders for attorneys that try this. Maytag's strategy with the Neptunes was to ignore them, thinking they would go away. They didn't.

As I warn everyone, don't fall for this crap. The attorneys who do this are snakes. Among other things, class action lawsuits need to meet a quick demise.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 7:04 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
To All: I have corrected my Posting---

The PHA (boot enhancement kit) kit was set up to address the mold and mildew problem. The box comes with a vented inner door and the associated parts. Also is the new style boot with the center drain and the tub cover to match. The control board with the newer programming to aid in rinsing out the machine is included. This kit was not designed to address the WAX motor issue. The fix for that came with the MAH5500B models that went back to a solenoid. However, Jay says the Wax Motor is in the new PHA kits. So I suppose it would take care of the wax motor too!
There were 5 configurations of this kit. 2 for bisque colored doors and 2 for white colored doors. ( I can't remember what the other color was.) They address the 3000 & 4000 units. Your unit had a different design and was not included in this program.

Your machine was not covered in this program and the control board enclosed won't work on your unit. I would recommend that you purchase the newer board and the newer wax motor. Your board is a 22004325. This number covers all 2000 units.

The first release of them was in 2003 and was:
11/20/03 The Kits Are:
12001766 MAH3000AWA
12001767 MAH3000AWQ
12001768 MAH3000AWW
12001769 MAH4000AWQ
12001770 MAH4000AWW
12001800 Tub assembly kit, board & liner [NLA Subs to 12002525]
22003610 Door Boot (Grey, w/drain) [NLA Subs to 12002533]
22003893 Door Boot (BOOT,DOOR (BLK))
[Black hides mold better]

In 2004 Maytag updated the program. Here is the bulletin:
MAYTAG SERVICES
February 21, 2005

To: All Maytag Parts Distributors

From: Maytag Parts Administration

Subject: Neptune Door Soot Kits


***IMPORTANT UPDATE***

This communication is to clear up confusion regarding the Neptune door boot kits, and detail
which part numbers are available to you and which are not.

Original Part # ... Status ... Substitute ... Part# ... Status

12001766 ...... NLA ... 12002520 ... Non-sellable
12001767 ...... NLA ... 12002521 ... Non-sellable
12001768 ...... NLA ... 12002522 ... Non-sellable
12001769 ...... NLA ... 12002523 ... Non-sellable
12001770 ...... NLA ... 12002524 ... Non-sellable
12001800 ...... NLA ... 12002525 ... Non-sellable

Should a service contractor or consumer order the items above, they should be referred to our PriorityOne team at 888-462-9824. (Choose Option #9.) Please code your system accordingly.

Part numbers 12001772 and 22003810 door boots both sub to part number 12002533
door boot which IS AVAILABLE. Please provide fulfillment for customers who order
those items.

In addition, If you have current inventory of part number 12001772 (only), please remove it
from circulation promptly and dispose of it locally. Full credit will be received by filling out an
electronic CMR form# 16007351 and submitting it with an electronic copy of this letter to
your credit contact in Parts Administration.

If you have any questions, please contact us at partsdept@maytag.com or 423-479-3333.

Thank you.

John Benjamin
Manager, Parts Sales & Administration
End of Memo ----------------

Jay- The black boot is still in stock at a few places for those customers that don't want to see black spots and maybe have a septic system.

I am looking in the box at Sundberg this week and will find out if the 12002525 is for the 2000 series. I will post later what I find.

I still do not know why they sold these units to the parts distributors if their sale was restricted. See the memo.

A personal note to the customer:
Maytag is no longer in business. They were purchased by Whirlpool corporation and are being incorporated into the Whirlpool structure. Maytag's bad business practices put them out of business. Trying to reason as to why they did or did not do anything is moot. Once the attorneys got involved they cut all of the customer service, good-will, and any hope of saving the Company. It took management just 12 years to ruin the company after they went IPO. The big wigs made thir money at the expense of quality and the consumer. Whirlpool bought the company to keep the Chinese (Haier group) from gaining control. All products of Maytag directly competed for market share with Whirlpool and had become inferior in quality but still had more good name recognition. Whirlpool is stuck with this company and we will have to see what they will do with it.


Norm
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 7:13 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Lori: Somewhere in here I have a post that details how to clean the unit.
In short... Mold and Mildew are plants. Plants will grow in any moist atmosphere. Soap does not kill mold and mildew, only chlorine bleach (Sodium Hypochlorite Solution), Linco, Clorox, etc.
Spray Tilex Mold and Mildew Remover With Bleach on the boot. Let it stand for a couple of minutes so the bleach can kill the stuff. Scrub and wipe as needed with a brush and paper towel.
Run the machine for the maximum time with 1 quart added into the soap dispenser. (NOT THE BLEACH DISPENSER). Let the cycle run. The machine will smell fresh and the boot will be squeeky clean instead of slimey.
There may be a black stain on the grey rubber that will fade with continued cleaning about once a month.
Norm
Next message Jay Allen   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 7:34 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Norm,

I take issue with your personal note.

First of all, Maytag did not go out of business. They were purchased by a competitor. Maytag was not in financial crisis. In fact, the company had a very large cash reserve. When a company goes public, as Maytag did, it becomes fair game for takeover. In this case, Haier wanted to buy it to improve their market share in the United States. Whirlpool wisely stopped that effort.

Both Maytag and Whirlpool have been sucking quality out of their products for many years now. Let me present you with the Calypso as Exhibit A. And how many Whirlpool sump and motor assemblies have you replaced lately? We replaced 67 in 2006, virtually all in units less than 3 years old. Not a single Maytag dishwasher pump failure in 2006.

You need to look at the broader market to see what is going on. Yes, this situation is a big black mark on Maytag's reputation, but realize that the disaster that it became was not caused by Maytag, but by attorneys who wanted to make their money at the expense of Maytag.

In other news, the PHA kits are sold as COD directly to the customer. They have a limited quantity, and that is why they are restricted...somewhat. You are not supposed to be able to buy one unless you are an authorized servicer.
Next message ADMIN   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 7:55 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Please remember this is a public topic.
Some information is not for the general public.
Next message Colin Campbell (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 7:58 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Norm,

Thank you for taking the time to post such a detailed reply.

It seems so ironic that problems with their "top of the line" washer can wipe out decades of consumer faith in the brand in such a short time.

If I had to replace my machines today I would probably buy a DUET. Perhaps this is why the Whirlpool corporation doesn't care about my present frustration since I would be buying whirlpool. Without true competition it is the consumers that suffer in the end. Maybe its time to look at an LG.
Next message Colin Campbell (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 8:48 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Jay,

While I share your distain with attorneys, I don't believe Maytag is entirely without blame or at least Maytag's attorneys. Maytag is in a very bad situation but they didn't have to abandon their customers.

While settlement documents for class action suits may stipulate that people who were not members of the class are not entitled to any damages under the class settlement, and that they cannot bring action again on the same issue, I would reason that Maytag's lawyers added this stipulation, not the plaintiff's. I'm sure they were protecting Maytag from further lawsuits but I find it hard to believe any court would fine Maytag for helping additional customers out of goodwill.

The way Whirlpool behaved, it seems to be conveniently hiding behind the lawsuit to deny any further customer service/goodwill and thus increase short term profits. God Bless Corporate America.

I am not a lawyer so correct me if I am wrong.
Next message Jay Allen   posted on Wednesday, February 14, 2007 - 9:08 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Colin,

I have been up close and personal through the class action thing many times in the past. Indeed, Maytag is protecting itself from future litigation, but understand where this comes from:

The plaintiff attorneys want to get as much money as possible. In order for a court to adequately rule on a class action suit, it must know what the total financial settlement. If that language were not in the agreement, the amount the plaintiff would receive would be far lower, as the total cost to the defendant would be more or less undefined. The plaintiffs, wanting to maximize their take, define it this way. It is the long-standing tradition of how class action suits are handled.

I add as further evidence the fact that Maytag was paying for these repairs left and right BEFORE the suit was filed. I have a stack of special authorizations from Maytag for these repairs prior to the lawsuit being filed. They were taking care of their customers BEFORE the attorneys got involved. Even if you scour the internet, you will find that the biggest complaints were from people AFTER the class action suit was filed.

I don't really have disdain for attorneys in general. However, the ones who file these sorts of lawsuits are bottom feeders and I have no respect for them. They are one step below door to door salesmen.
Next message Colin Campbell (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, February 14, 2007 - 2:33 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Point taken Jay however there is no need to insult door to door salesmen by comparing them to class action attorneys.

Have a good one.
Next message Jay Allen   posted on Wednesday, February 14, 2007 - 3:30 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Funny story...

Yesterday, a friend of my wife's sent someone to our home to talk about an "air cleaner". It turned out to be a 2.5 hour presentation about an ionization cleaner, a whole house air filter which attaches to the furnace, a new vacuum, and some other gadget that my wife did not remember.

As a result, door to door salesmen are not too high on my list right now.

Next message Colin Campbell (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, February 14, 2007 - 5:24 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
*Follow up*

I checked the Wax motor on my MAH4000AWW, Series 63 and it indeed already had the new motor. Thanks for the advice Jay before I ordered a part I didn't need.

Colin
Next message colin campbell (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Thursday, February 15, 2007 - 10:11 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Replaced wax motor and control board on the stackable. Back up and running now.

It was tense for a while because the new wax motor takes almost 4-5 minutes to lock door. The old one used to take less than 1 minute. When it took so long to lock I was dreading the thought of tearing the machine apart again to get to the control board. Thank god it finally locked just before I was about to pull the plug and take the machine apart again.

Norm and Jay, thanks again for your help
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Thursday, February 15, 2007 - 10:33 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Colin:
That is part of the new program. There is an add-a-garment feature so you can add one if you forgot. It is a longer time period.
Remember, this has the latest program and some things are changed.
Next message hgupta (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, February 15, 2007 - 12:47 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a MAH5500BWW .
It broke down in the middle of a cycle. Heard a small bang at the back like a fuse blow or some thing. After that it turms on , but the whole cycle 43 min or so, there is just a buzzing sound. doesn't seem as if the drum is moving at all. Got a maytag referred repairman to check it out. He says the board is burnt and needs to be replaced. Total cost (part + labor) around 500 bucks. Saw that a resistor labelled R104 seems to be burnt. Was wondering if its worthwhile trying to replace just that? where to get that though?

Is it possible to replace the control board on my own? wher can I get it?
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Thursday, February 15, 2007 - 10:49 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
> Yes you can replace the board your self, you can even order it direct from Maytag.
Next message kari van diest (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, February 20, 2007 - 2:40 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a Maytag Neptune MAH3000AWW that has worked wonderfully since we purchased it in the fall of 1998. Now it stops 5 seconds after pushing the start button. I have gone through the troubleshooting items in the service manual and found in the machine and everything seems to check out fine. The door will lock and everything works as long as I stand there holding the start button in. Any suggestions??
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Tuesday, February 20, 2007 - 5:25 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have seen this before. It is most likely a failed motor control board. You can check this by listening for the motor running sound while filling (a sloshing sound). If there is no motion, you can check the fuse on the motor control board, also look for burnt parts. Be sure to disconnect power when you are working on this.
If you have motion then you may have a bad control board. A good service tech can check this for you.
Next message Andrea (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, February 25, 2007 - 11:22 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Have a MAH5500bww engineering marvel. The door lock light seems to function properly, however, the LR code was popping up and now the machine only fills and empties itself. I am fixing for a friend and removed the pump hoses to check for clogs (I have rebuilt a calypso washing machine and it would clog that is why I checked P.S. the calypso is probably a worse machine than this one if you have ever had to remove the quad u-joint assembly) I digress, what should I replace, my guess is the motor/control upgrade from what I read in these posts.
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Sunday, February 25, 2007 - 11:34 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
In most cases yes, but you should do the motor controler test 1st.
Next message Andrea (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, February 26, 2007 - 10:25 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Ok.
So how would I do the motor controller test? Is it in the manual, or can you tell me?
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Monday, February 26, 2007 - 11:15 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
The instructions for testing the motor controler are in the mini service manual in the control panel. You unplug one connecter and the motor will tumble at 50 rpm if the motor and motor board are ok.
Next message kari van diest (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, February 28, 2007 - 3:11 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I checked the motor control board and fuse, everything seems to be good. Also went back through the troubleshooting items and the power cuts out at the line relay on the machine control board. Can you give me the part number I need to purchase and would you recommend buying from a parts dealer or getting one off ebay? The model number is mah3000aww, serial number is 33120169uy. Thanks!!
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Wednesday, February 28, 2007 - 6:31 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Kari:
When the washer is filling, do you hear any agitation. The tub you should be turning back and forth and you should hear sloshing. Hold the start button in if you have to.
Purchasing parts from a dealer will give you a 90 day warranty. There are several online parts dealers. Ebay parts will have no warranty.
If the unit is agitating then it probably is a bad control board. If it is not agitating then you could have a bad motor board or machine control board or both.
You can by a MAH5500BWW from a dealer at $649.00, while supplies last in the Maytag warehouse. These boards are big ticket items. Once installed there is no return on them. A service professional may come in handy here.
Next message housewife in trouble (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Wednesday, February 28, 2007 - 9:33 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a Maytag Neptune FAV6800 we are having problems with the water draining, does anyone know when the machine is taken apart how to drain it?
Next message Andrea (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, March 01, 2007 - 9:26 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Have mah5500bww with burned motor control board of which three or four burned resistors were found right next to each other. Also I see many comments about the door lock assy. this one worked fine even after the motor quit running, including during the diagnostic check-should it also be replaced?
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Friday, March 02, 2007 - 12:55 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Andrea: We do not recommend changing expensive parts just because there may be a problem in the future. The motor board is bad and you will have to replace the motor and controller with the new Neptune Motor Conversion Kit. The problem with the door lock is caused by the door lock WAX motor that jams and burns out components on the machine control board. Replacing the WAX motor may or may not keep the machine board from frying. Changing the board will do nothing. Our advice is to wait until you have a problem. See previous posts.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Friday, March 02, 2007 - 12:59 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Dear Housewife:
What do you mean? Do you mean that there is water still in the tub and you want to know how to get it out? Have you tried to bail the water out to the bottom with a container?
Next message Ron Mills (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Saturday, March 03, 2007 - 12:07 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Maytag M/MAH5500BWW, SN/A2949369CA, Date of purchase ???. Machine is essentially dead. Only LED indicator light working is cotton/sturdy. Only buttons (plasma switches) working are delicates, hand wash and rinse, thus can't enter service mode. Digital readout (minutes) is lit. Has anyone any suggestions??
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Saturday, March 03, 2007 - 12:02 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Dear Ron:
Sounds like some kind of control module failure.
Next message Bill Spalding (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 5:49 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Just replaced the outer tub assembly in my Neptune MAH3000AWW. The instructions given with the tub say that after replacing the seal(I have the earlier lip seal)reinsert spin basket, replace pulley and torque the retaining bolt to 33 ft lbs(this is supposed to bring shaft and seal into proper alignment). When I do this the spin basket won't budge and the pulley won't turn. If I loosen the retaining bolt enough it finally spins freely. I'm afraid if I loosen it too much I'll get water in my bearings and I will have to start this process all over again. Any thoughts?ideas?
Also when I tested the washer to see if it would work after loosening the bolt, it spins fine at all speeds, but the belt squeaks very loudly when the motor is changing direction. What can I do to stop or control this squeak?
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Monday, March 05, 2007 - 10:57 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Dear Bill:
The instructions are not very clear or correct sometimes. Did you remove the old seal piece from the shaft (metal piece)? Did you press in the seal using the plastic cap before you put in the shaft? Did you install the plastic spacer correctly? Did you use the new bolt and washer stuff? Sounds like you have not assembled it correctly and it will leak and cause the bearing failure again. Start again with a new seal kit. Discard everything you have used already. The pieces fit in such a way that the bearings are riding against the axle shaft. Tighten to more than 33 ft lbs and it should not matter because metal to metal. So you have something not right.
You will have to buy a new belt to get it to stop squeeking.
Next message Ron Mills (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, March 05, 2007 - 2:42 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Dear Norm (and others),
I was hoping for a bit more specific guidance. Is this a common problem? Could the plasma switch/LED indicator assembly be defective? How would I narrow the problem down? Could I jump-start the washer by connecting two pins of the console ribbon cable?
Thanx.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Monday, March 05, 2007 - 7:21 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Is this a common problem? No!
Could the plasma switch/LED indicator assembly be defective? Yes!
How would I narrow the problem down? - Determine what happened to the unit to make this happen. Did it get wet? Was the unit moved around using the console head. Was there a thunderstorm or rainstorm in the area?
Could I jump-start the washer by connecting two pins of the console ribbon cable? - No.
There is a mini-service manual inside the console. If you can understand the manual and diagnostic procedures and have the proper equipment then you can diagnose it. If not you may have to call a repairman. If you want, you can replace the console and the control module and save the labor.
Electronic problems are best diagnosed by somebody with basic electrical and electronic understanding and testing experience. Your comment; "Could I jump-start the washer by connecting two pins of the console ribbon cable?" indicates to me you do not have that experience and do not understand what the parts really are all about. (No offence ment.)
Norm
Next message Artur (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, March 06, 2007 - 7:44 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a Neptune MAH3000AWW, and repaired the circuit board with new wax motor, and experienced the mold now the rear drum bearing is bad. After researching the the internet I'm still unsure can you replace just the bearing? instead of the drum bearing assembly.

Also this website seems to offer new lip seal kit with the new bearing..... is that feasible..?

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2006/04/06/maytag-neptune-washer-drum-bearing-and-seal-replacement-kit/#SlideFrame_1

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Tuesday, March 06, 2007 - 11:21 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
We had a machinist that was able to replace the drum bearing only and the posts are on this thread I think. In my experience the only way for a successful repair is to do it the factory way and replace the outer tub that comes with the bearings. The instruction sheet you referred to is the one that is packed with that tub assembly. It comes with the tub with bearing units installed, a seal kit and those instructions.
What I do not understand is how you can fix a circuit board with a wax motor? And what does the mold have to do with the bearings? The mold is a plant. It grows everywhere and everybody has mold and mildew.
Next message Artur (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2007 - 7:08 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I was referring to all of the common problems that everyone was describing, that I have experienced with my machine. This board only limits the messages to 1 kilobytes, but here it is the full explanation split into two messages..

1. The R6 resistor was replaced and higher voltage triac put in place on the circuit board, and new wax motor was installed. All of this can be purchased on e-bay for about $30 with detailed instructions. Instead of doing the factory way and replacing the entire circuit board for around $200 if you do it yourself.
Next message Artur (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2007 - 7:09 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
2. Mold and mildew on the inner boot referred to previously is another problem that I have been dealing with, without a solution. The door light was removed and we leave the door open between the washes and that definitely helps but it did not eliminate the problem. I would have to disagree with the statement that mold grows everywhere and everybody has mold and mildew. I'm not sure what exactly that was being referred to but I did not have mold or mildew, and it does not grow everywhere until this washer. Continued on next message....
Next message Artur (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2007 - 7:10 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
3. The drum bearing is just another thing that went wrong with this washer. I will try to replace the bearing with new seal kit if it can be done. If this too painful to do, I will buy a new washer and I will definitely not purchase another Maytag and for that matter Whirlpool since it was bought by Maytag.

This is a very poorly designed product. Thanks to the internet Maytag should know how many dissatisfied customers there are, just type Maytag Neptune in any search engine.

Thanks for the advise.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2007 - 8:03 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Artur- You cannot replace the drum bearing with the seal kit. It just has the seals.
I am sorry you feel that way about Maytag and Whirlpool. If you avoid a Whirlpool product just because the name is associated now with Maytag you would be making a mistake I think. Remember, in today's economy, machines are not designed to last forever like the ones of years ago. Maybe you would benefit from a lower technology machine, one with no electronics.
I find mold and mildew in every front load machine where the owner does not use chlorene bleach on a regular basis. For instance, the latest Whirlpool Duet has a clean mode where the machine will wash itself with a higher water level and bleach added by the consumer.
All front loaders must be maintained to avoid mold and mildew growth. Leaving the door open with a wet boot helps a bit but mold and mildew just love to grow in dark and dank areas. Some manufacturers hide this issue with a black boot but the slimey stuff is still there if you feel for it and don't clean it up.
You managed to save a few bucks through the support on the internet like this board so you have had a pretty good run with this machine compared to some others.
Next message Artur (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2007 - 9:16 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Yes I understand that, I should have said I will try to replace the bearing with a new bearing and at the same time will put in new seal kit with the total cost of about $40-$50.

Thanks.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2007 - 9:26 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
It is a pair of bearings in there. They are standard bearings from any bearing house. You must get the Maytag seal kit. If you crack the tub in pressing them out you have bought the farm. I would advise that you leave the air tube in the tub while working on it. I would also clean the filter in the drain boot that feeds the recirculation pump while you have it apart. Remove the sensor on the side of the tub before you do any banging (blue wires). Good luck.
Next message Ron Mills (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2007 - 10:05 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Norm
Thanks for the additional info. Now I have a clue which way to go (though it is more difficult without a schematic instead of a diagram.)
Ron
p.s. I am a retired computer repair tech and licensed ham radio operator, so I do have some equipment available.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 7:50 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Ron--
I am limited on what I can say or do by the rules of the site. I cannot provide you with any documents. There is the very thing you need that was packed in the console of your unit. It is the mini service manual with the schematic and test procedures. But, I fear that based on my prior experience you will probably need a machine control board. The keypad matrix can be tested and that procedure is located in that manual in the console of your machine. They do not give us "techs" any more details. The keypad is not repairable or is the control board. A remanufactured board usually costs more than the original. There are no schematics for the rebuilders either. Try to get a computer schematic from GM or Ford if for example. Motors has the vehicle schematic and wiring diagram but each assembly is an empty box with terminals.
Norm
Next message John P. Vissari (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, March 08, 2007 - 10:09 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
My Neptune sqeaks terrible during spin cycle. (metal rubbing metal) I've located it to the lower front right corner. The problem I'm having though is how to remove the front panel. I can't see down to where the squeak is coming from from the top so I was hoping to remove the panel to see where the wear is happening. Any help on how to remove this panel is appreciated.
Thanks
Next message rgilbert (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Friday, March 09, 2007 - 5:52 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a Maytag Neptune front load Model: MAH4000AWW, Serial No. 40325057WH. It stopped working during a wash cycle. Now all it does is fill water and pumps water out. Nothing else, the motor does not turn. The F1 Fuse has blown on the Motor Control Board Model No. AA19680-(E), P/N:6 2710600. If I have a bad motor, will the warranty cover the Motor Control Board? If not can I replace the fuse and use this board?
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Friday, March 09, 2007 - 7:19 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
rgilbert--
You must take the motor and control board with wiring harness attached over to your authorized Whirlpool/Maytag parts distributor with your proof of purchase to see if you can get the warranty on the part.
You must replace both the motor and board with the motor & control conversion kit. Instructions are included.
Good Luck.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Friday, March 09, 2007 - 7:24 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
John Vissari--
Are you talking about a washer or dryer?
To remove the cover--- Open the door. There are 2 phillips head screws on the left (one on each hinge) and 2 on the right. Remove those and gently pry out each side of the cover from the top right edge. Tilt it out and remove. Reverse to install.
I do not think there is anything you can see. Please post model and serial numbers for further help. Read this entire thread too.
Norm
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Friday, March 09, 2007 - 7:26 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
> If the fuse is blown you need a motor. By serial number you need to grt the motor and motor controler kit. That seial number is to old to be under warranty.
Next message rgilbert (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Friday, March 09, 2007 - 7:59 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Roy,

I purchased this Neptune 6/30/99. Why shouldn't it be under warranty?

rgilbert
Next message John P. Vissari (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Friday, March 09, 2007 - 8:37 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Norman, the info you asked is Maytag washer MAH8700AWW SN# 10308848GE. Thanks for your help. Thats kind of what I thought but wasn't sure. This is my wife's piece of machinery, and I really don't want to break it. I believe the metal frame is rubbing the front panel, so I want to see if I can put a piece of rubber between the metal or tighten a screw or anything. Once again, thanks
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Friday, March 09, 2007 - 8:42 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
> Check your owners manual for what is covered and for how long.
Next message John P. Vissari (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Friday, March 09, 2007 - 8:55 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I just checked the washer, there are 4 screws on the left (seem to be holding the hinges on) and 3 on the right (seem to be holding door sensors on) So I'm a little confused. I think you were referring to a dryer, because your advice matches it. Thanks
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Saturday, March 10, 2007 - 8:56 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Rgilbert-
Did not my instructions say to bring your proof of purchase to the parts distributor along with all of the old parts I mentioned and see what they can do for you? The proof-of-purchase is needed because the unit was built long before you purchased it according to Roy. If we were going by build date then the unit may be out of warranty. It is up to the parts house you use to determine whether Whirlpool/Maytag will cover the part. Sometimes they do and sometimes they won't. Sometimes they will have you pay for the part and refund you when they get paid on the warranty claim.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Saturday, March 10, 2007 - 9:18 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
John P. Vissari--
Now that I know your model number we can chat better.
Removal of the front panel is a involved job on this unit built by Samsung and similar in design to LG. You cannot run the unit with the front removed. My advise is to remove the top and look down. Or, remove the back door and look in. If the squeek is from the tumbler area then it may have to be dismantled and inspected. If it is from the belt, shock absorbers or springs then you may find it.
If you intend to service this unit yourself then I would order a service manual Pt #16026126 from Maytag. Call the number listed on the machine and on the documentation that came with it. If you want somebody else to help solve this they can also help you find an authorized servicer in your area. An independent servicer with experience on this unit can be found through your local yellow pages. You may have to call several and ask them about this perticular unit. It is a totally different design from the ones that have been extensively discussed on this thread.
Norm
Next message rgilbert (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Saturday, March 10, 2007 - 1:38 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thanks Norman and Roy. I do have my proof of purchase and I will take the parts with me when I go to the Maytag Parts distributor.
Thanks for the great information!
rgilbert
Next message rgilbert (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, March 11, 2007 - 1:57 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Do I need a special tool to remove the motor. I see (looking from the back) a bolt on the left and a knob with a hole in the center on the right holding the motor in place. I removed the belt adjusting bolt and the motor tilted down. I'm not sure about the knob on the right.

Thanks for your help,
rgilbert
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Sunday, March 11, 2007 - 5:52 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
The knob on the right is the motor casting. just push it out of the holders toward the front of the machine (looking from the back) and it will fall out. Wiggle it as you push.
Next message rgilbert (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2007 - 10:02 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thanks Norman,

I did exactly what you said and the motor did fall out. I've got the Conversion Kit installed and it's working like a charm. Thanks for all your help. It cost me gallon of gas ($2.50), a couple of hours and a few gray hairs.
rgilbert
Next message daphne D (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Tuesday, March 20, 2007 - 10:08 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
hi I own a MAH4000AWW SN 53288469YK. Approx. 10 yo. This last weekend I did a LOT of laundry, washing comforters and some pretty heavy loads (more than usual). Everything was fine until this morning when I put in an average load of laundry and the washer started to moan in the spin cycle and eventually stopped spinning. Moan back, Moan forth, moan back moan forth then.. when it starts the serious spinning action... it stops (gives up!) and make a few little squeaks before the washer turns off. The door locks when on, unlocks after a delay when turned off so I don't thing there is any door lock problem. Does this sound familiar? Any hints, low cost repairs I can try? Online manual I can refer to take it apart? Help is appreciated. Daphne
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Wednesday, March 21, 2007 - 10:06 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
daphne-- The unit was not designed for all of that laundry. You only have 3 gallons or so of wash water to work with. Try to stick your wash into a 5 gallon paint pail and you can see what I mean. If the unit agitates at all the motor is OK. If the door locks and the light comes on then that is OK. It sounds like you upset something in the unbalance line. I would get a tech for this unless you can tell me that you have experience in troubleshooting electrical wiring.
Norm
Next message daphne dristy (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Wednesday, March 21, 2007 - 10:28 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Norm, though not an engineer I did sleep at a holiday inn express and think I may just be able to handle this. The worst that can happen is I don't succeed the best is, I do. Help me, please. Anywhere on the web that I can see the specs of the model to help with disassembly? Regards, Daphne.
Next message daphne dristy (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, March 21, 2007 - 11:12 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
norm, I found the manual online chocked full of great info... I think I have a starting point now. I will check the unbalance control system and go from there...thanks for the help.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Thursday, March 22, 2007 - 1:23 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Daphne:
The first switch is to check and wiggle the one at the bottom in the front. The unbalance switches and sensor are connected by thick blue wires. Sometimes the Sta-Kon terminal breaks at the senser located midway up the right side of the tub. The line ends at a connector at the top rear. Use a test meter across the 2 pins. The switches when OK should read short.
Norm
Next message ryngerto (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, March 22, 2007 - 5:18 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
hello norm

need some help with maytag neptune washer/dryer model spin cycle not working like it used to and door ligt lock is not lighing up any advice thanks in advance,robert in miami
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Friday, March 23, 2007 - 7:29 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Ryngerto--
Inspect the control board located on the rear panel of the control panel. If you see burned components as described multiple times in this thread then you will have to replace the wax motor in the lock and replace the control board with a new one. Please read the thread for more info.
Please give Model and Serial Numbers if you need further help.
Norm
Next message Damon (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Saturday, April 14, 2007 - 7:03 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
A friend just gave me a Neptune AH4000AWW. He said they bought a new washer a couple of eyars ago and have had this one in their garage waiting for his bro-in-law to pick it up... whihc he never did.
He said Maytag had told them the controller board needed to be replaced and it would cost about $225.

Since our W/D are 20 years old, we thought a 6 year old set would be an upgrade.


After looking on-line at some of the issues, I decided to go ahead and hook it up.

Here are the problems:
1) It starts and stops a bunch during spin. It revs up, then stops. It repeats this.
2) At high rev, it squeels.
3) It will not drain, I'm not even seeing water coming out of the drain hose.
4) It is leaking water somewhere near the front.

What needs to be replaced, and how much do you all think it will cost? I would like to know what I'm in for before I get rid of my old, yet reliable, washign machine.
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Saturday, April 14, 2007 - 8:06 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
1) tub balance issue.
2) at high rev's it squeals; sounds like it needs a outer tub w/bearing and the spinner support.
3) will not drain; bad pump or something jammed in it. with water in it it may cause #1.
4) Leak dont kn ow with out looking at it, maybe tub tub leaking or the pump, but just dont know.

When any appliance sits for a many years many things can happen to it.
I would suggest having a appliance tech look it over.
Next message daphne (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Saturday, April 14, 2007 - 9:57 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi Norm, Just wanted to let you know that I fixed my washer. After reading the repair manual the symptoms sounded suspiciously like a problem with on of the parts of the motor. I took a chance and called maytag for a new motor as it was still under warranty. They sent me a new motor & motor control board for the price of shipping ($10.00). Took the old one out, put the new one in and IT WORKS LIKE A CHARM! The only problem I had was trying to get the bolt that holds the motor on back in. It wasn't long enough so I bought one that was 1/4" longer. Anyone with a maytag fl problem, I'd suggest reading the repair manual first and don't forget the motor may be under warranty. Thanks for your help. Regards Daphne
Next message Damon (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Saturday, April 14, 2007 - 10:28 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
First off, thanks for the reply!

1) tub balance issue. -I should have mentioned that I ran it through an empty cycle.
2) at high rev's it squeals; sounds like it needs a outer tub w/bearing and the spinner support. -Ugh!
3) will not drain; bad pump or something jammed in it. with water in it it may cause #1. - I manually emptied most of the water but when moving it, water came out of the drain hose. I tilted the washer back and drained the rest of the water through the hose.
4) Leak dont kn ow with out looking at it, maybe tub tub leaking or the pump, but just dont know.

When any appliance sits for a many years many things can happen to it.
I would suggest having a appliance tech look it over.

Assuming, the tech comes out and decides it needs a new tub bearing, spinner support, new pump, and a new board. How much do you think that would run?
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Saturday, April 14, 2007 - 10:59 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
> Just the cost of those parts is about 600, no labor.
Next message Damon (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, April 15, 2007 - 12:08 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I don't think it is out of balance since it is still running smooth at what seems to be max RPM but it does sound like a bearing.
Could the board having issues cause the drain pump to not kick on and the spin to start and stop? It really seems to me that there are two possible control issues going on or, a control issue and the pump.

I can replace the board. I looked at it today and got the wiring diagram out. Replacing it would be pretty straight forward but the bearing is way out of my league.

Board: $200?
Bearing replacement: $200?
Next message Damon (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, April 15, 2007 - 12:17 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
BTW...
Your bot stopping 6 digit code is not always showing the image so you have to submit 3 or 5 times to get the image to show.
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Sunday, April 15, 2007 - 8:32 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
There is a wiring harness and several out of balance switches attached to the outer tub. We have seen both the harness and the switches go bad having intermittent problems. When the one of these is tripped the spin speed drops to low and then ramps back up.
I have never seen the control board cause a drain pump issue.
this does not sound like a control board issue.
It is possible that is a motor and motor control board issue. The noise may be coming from a motor bearing also.
I would not recommend starting to throw expensive parts at it. Pay to have it looked at so you can make an informed decision.
Except for the noise and the leak, the other problems may be as simple as a damaged wiring harness.
As far as the 6 digit code, we had to implement this to keep spam bots from posting. Each post gets emailed to members registered to receive email from this topic. Some browsers do not properly display the code all the time.
Our options were to close the ASK A PRO topic or use the 6 digit image.
Next message Jay Allen   posted on Sunday, April 15, 2007 - 9:14 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I agree with Roy that I have never seen a control board cause a drain pump issue. I have seen plenty of failed drain pumps, however.

Those off balance switches are somewhat prone to failure, particularly the bottom one. You can only bang that switch against the base so many times before it stops working.

A noise during spin can onlt be coming from a couple of things, either the main bearing or the motor. I would be more inclined to think the main tub bearing than a motor bearing, mainly because I have only seen one motor with bad bearings on a Neptune, but I have probably seen two dozen tub bearings. It's just a percentage thing.

None of the issues you are describing sound like a board to me. I would not replace it.

I do not know how you would get the bearing replaced for $200. The parts alone are going to be 2-3 times that. And this job is definitely NOT a do-it-yourself job.

p.s. Do you have a serial number?
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Sunday, April 15, 2007 - 9:59 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Dear Damon:
Welcome to the world of Neptune.
First of all. The sloshing sound when you rotate the tub is the fluid in the dynamic vibration dampener in the collar. It is always there. You cannot drain it.
Second. There is always some water found in the bottom of the sump and drain line. The unit never completely (100%) is drained.
Third. If it sounds like the bearings are out of grease (loud roar) the bearings are shot.
Fourth. The motor is designed to stop and start if the controller senses overload. This could be because of the bad bearings. OR, the motor and controller must be replaced.
Fifth. The control board in the console is not the motor controller. It is probably good.
The new updated Neptune (MAH5500BWW) is being closed out at $649. If you are a mechanic and want to try and take it apart yourself it will cost you about $450 for parts (250+200). There have been some machinists that have been able to extract the bearing unit and replace it from the shell and save money. Maytag sells the bearing installed in the shell. There is triple oversize surcharge from UPS to move the part about ($35).
Read the entire threads regarding the neptune bearing.
If you are not a machinist or a mechanic by trade then you will have to pay somebody labor about $250 to $350 and this will be more than what a new one would be.
When you switch from a top loader to a front loader you are entering into a different world. Keep the machine you have. Junk the Neptune the guy just gave you; or fix it up yourself.
Next message Damon (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, April 15, 2007 - 12:55 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thanks everyone.

On the bot code, I wasn't complaining. I understand why you have it, I just letting you know it was acting up.

On the water in the drain hose. I had to manually drain the water out of tub.

This sounds like a machine with more issues than I am ready to pay repairs on.

I get the impression too that pretty much the entire Neptune line is close to being junk and not worth the money or the headaches they will cause. I will say the dryer seems to work well and is quiter than our old one.

The serial number on the washer is :40343275WK
Next message Irwin (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, April 16, 2007 - 4:53 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hello,

I have a Neptune Front Load Washer, Model MAH8700AWM, it is only 1-1/2 years old. It just started to leak like crazy in the detergent dispenser. The leaking start about 2 minutes into the start cycle. Is there a hose that might be loose in the dispenser? If so, how could I access the hose, I tried pulling out the dispenser tray but couldn't. Please help, I need clean clothes. Thank you.
Next message Don Auburn (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, April 17, 2007 - 6:29 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi. I have a Maytag DG710 gas dryer. The burner has stopped cycling. Once it lights, it stays lit until you turn the dryer off. There is a sensor near the flame and I replaced it but it does the same thing. Any ideas?
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Tuesday, April 17, 2007 - 9:18 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Dear Don-
This thread is for the Maytag Neptune. THere are other threads that cover your old style dryer, Maytag DG710 gas dryer.
If the flame works then the burner components are working so replacement of the flame sensor was not necessary.
There may be one or more cycling thermostats located on the duct where the blower is. The cycling thermostats may be defective. One thermostat is used for low heat, one for high heat, and one for cool down.
Have you tried selecting a different heat setting. Try that and see if the different setting will cycle. Example: Put it on low heat. Run the dryer, If it cycles then the high heat thermostat is bad. Switch the heat setting to air fluff and the flame should go out.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Tuesday, April 17, 2007 - 9:32 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Dear Irwin--
There is a hidden tab at the top of the dispenser drawer that must be pushed down for the drawer to come out. Please look at the drawer and try to find where it is being stopped from comming out... That is the locking tab. Push it down a bit and the drawer will release.
It just started to leak like crazy in the detergent dispenser. What do you mean by leaking? Where is the water comming from? Out the front?
This Neptune model's dispenser is complicated. After you get the drawer out you should look inside and see if there is any blockage in the dispenser like hardened soap. If you will check your owner's manual you should find the drawer removal instructions because the drawer should be cleaned regularly. Washed out with hot water. Make sure you are using soap with the HE designation too!
Next message JohnBreitenbach (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 3:22 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
My Neptune washer developed the wax motor problem on Sunday. I missed out on the class action suit somehow and am interested in doing the fix myself. Any comments on the kits at -----.com?

(Message edited by roy on April 19, 2007)
Next message BrianBlackwell (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 11:21 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hello, I have a Neptune MAH4000AWW washer that doesn't want to spin out. The tub will spin but not fast enough to really get the water out of the clothes. I did a "Drive System Phase Loss" test per the trouble shooting guide inside the washer. Everything was going okay until I unplugged Phase B wire the growling was louder than when I had phase C unplugged but the tub did turn. However, when I unplugged phase A then nothing, just made some noise and tub didn't turn. The diagnostic sheet says that I should replace the motor control. I don't see any smoked items on the control board. Anyway before I bought a new one I wanted to see if this diagnosis sounded right. Also I was looking up the part on line and I can't find it but I can find replacement kits which include the motor? What there something defective about the original motor / motor control boards?

Thanks this forum is awesome!
Next message Jay Allen   posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 12:06 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
You probably have a bad winding in the motor. If your washer model and serial subs you to the motor/control kit, that is your only option. The original control is not available anymore, as Maytag realized that the original design motor was junk, and they thought they should make a product improvement.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 8:42 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Dear John:
If you are an experienced electronic tech or have board repair and soldering proficency then go for it. Otherwise, you will not get the board repaired. Repairing foils is difficult for a trained tech. We cannot recommend this type of repair because a new board has updated programming and that is what Maytag and mostly all of our members do.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 9:06 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Bryan Blackwell--
My associate Jay is not understanding what you are talking about. He is steering you wrong on this.
FIRST: If the motor makes any motion such as tumbling for the wash--- THE MOTOR IS OK. You should not be fooling around with the control board like this because you can damage it.
SECOND: Back to basics. If you have read this thread you will see that if it does not go into high spin there are 2 main causes.
1) If the door lock does not light the door lock light then it will not high speed spin but it will tumble. You will need a WAX motor and control board (main control not motor control).
2) If the door locks then you might have a break on the unbalance line. The 2 thick blue wires that start at the top and run down the right side and makes connections at the unbalance sensor and impact switches. Sometimes the terminal sta-kin breaks at the switch connections and sometimes the bottom one stays open after a severe impact. The unit will tumble but will not high speed spin.
Sometimes if you operate the switch a few times it will correct itself.
As far as the board-- By unplugging stuff you may have damaged the board. If you get any tumbling at all then the board and motor are good. The board and motor are replaced by an upgrade kit that has both the new style motor and a new style control board that are a matched pair and not interchangeable with what you have.
When you unplug things you can't possibly expect it to operate properly. If it works (tumbles) all plugged in before you began to fool with it, the board and motor are OK. If the motor will no longer tumble then you broke it testing and it will have to be replaced.
Please post your final resolution on this.
Next message JohnBreitenbach (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 9:18 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Norman, Thanks for the caution. What is a ballpark parts cost of the controller card and it that going to require the motor upgrade? I'm using the original motor. model mah3000aww, serial:2511298ouf
Next message Jay Allen   posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 10:30 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Norman,

It sounds like he followed the Phase Loss test right off the tech sheet, which DOES ask you to remove wires from the control. We have done that very test hundreds of times.

The motor CAN run if one of the phases is not working, but, if it runs, it will have reduced torque. We have run into this many times as well. A lost phase could be the result of a bad winding or a bad control, but, either way, he will need the upgrade kit.

I found my electronic copy of the tech sheet, and here it is, right from Maytag:

===================================

Trouble Shooting: Drive Phase Loss Test

The Motor can run under light loads when one of the tree Motor phases is not functioning, but it will be noisier (growling sound) and will have less torque than normal.

- Unplug the washer power cord before removing or reconnecting and wires on the Motor Control.

- To access the Motor Control Terminals, remove the two screws that hold the Motor Control Bracket to the Base, Unsnap the two Twist Lock Wire Ties that restrain the Wire Harness, slide the Motor Control Assembly out and lay it in front of the washer. Remove the Drip Shield cover.

- Unplug the 6-position JP4 connector from the Motor Control.

- Place the Timer Knob into the Delay increments.

- When ready to test a phase, plug the washer cord into the wall socket and press the Push to Start button.

- Check Phase C by disconnecting the yellow or orange wire at the Motor Control. If the Motor operates with a slight growling sound, phases A and B is not functioning. Replace the Motor Control.

- Check Phase B by disconnecting the white or red wire at the Motor Control. If the Motor operates with a slight growling sound, phases B and C is not functioning. Replace the Motor Control.

- If the Motor passes this test, perform the Drive System Phase Continuity Test.

========================

If you go into these with the assumption that the motor making any motion means that the motor is ok, you will misdiagnose these. At least that has been our experience. We are still replacing plenty of these motor/control kits in washers that tumble but will not spin, or will not spin with a load.

Since he has followed the phase loss test recommended by the manufacturer, I am going to stick with my conclusion that the test leads us to. In addition, I have found more than one of these motors with a bad winding, and that would not surprise me at all.
Next message Brian Blackwell (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 11:46 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thanks Jay and Norm. I did follow the test exactly as Jay posted. Sounds like it is the Motor and motor control board then that I need to replace. With Phase A unplugged (per the instructions) drum will not turn at all. The information from the motor control is: Model: AA19680-(e) P/N 6 2710600 Ref 299101 and it says to only use with motor p/n H55BMBJL-1820. Finally when looking at replacement kits they all apply to certain series of washers...how do I find out what series I have. The Model is MAH4000AWW, Serial No. 50312509YD? Is it a series 5?

Thank you again for all the help! It is greatly appreciated!
Next message Jay Allen   posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 11:54 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Yours is a series 50, and the kit, 12002039, is used on models prior to series 88. So, you need that kit.
Next message Brian Blackwell (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, April 19, 2007 - 2:17 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thanks Jay, I will get one of those kits ordered up! Once I get the kit and get it installed I will let you know if it worked (I think it will). I didn't realize the neptunes were so problematic until this happened to ours and started doing research (we've had ours for 7 years and no trouble at all). I hope this isn't just the beginning of the road for our neptune...

Thanks again.
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Friday, April 20, 2007 - 10:05 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Scott repost in the members area please
Next message Ron Meade (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Saturday, April 21, 2007 - 3:39 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hello..Like many others having problems with my maytag Model:MAH3000AWW Ser: 37299249WD .The problem occurred as my G/F was doing a small load of laundry and was at or near the end of the spin cycle and clothes was still wet. I proceeded to try to restart washer at various setting and it washer will operate for about 5-10 seconds and then shut off.Door lock in also not engaging . Could you offer some input as to what the problem may be and remedy to have it repaired. Also has there ever been a class action again Maytag in Canada for such problems . Thanks.
Next message Jim Brown (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, April 24, 2007 - 12:07 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have an MAH4000AWW S/N 40333979WK
I repaired the motor control board once and all was well for a while. Even after the repair it was squeaking just at the point where the drum reverses direction. No squeaks during spins. Now it pretty much doesn't do anything but growl. Do I need the updated motor/control board? Other parts, maybe?
Thanks for the help!
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Tuesday, April 24, 2007 - 11:07 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Dear Ron Meade--
It is too late for Maytag to do anything about your unit even in Canada, although you can still call the Priority One Canada service number listed in your owners manual to find out.
There are two basic things that can cause your problem but you must answer these questions.
Can you start the cycle from the beginning and tell me if you hear any agitation motion. If so then go to the next problem. If not then examine the motor control board for blown fuse or burnt components.
If there is agitation then you may have a burnt spot on the control board in the console. This is the door lock trouble.
Let me know
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Tuesday, April 24, 2007 - 11:09 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Dear Jim Brown--
A small squeek between directions could be a belt squeek.
A roar is a bad main bearing. This is expensive and difficult for an unexperienced person to perform. Read my other postings on this in the thread.
Next message Maria Lipari (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 12:03 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi, Like many others, I too have issues with my Maytag Neptune - Model MAH4000AWW, Serial # 62733993YU. I just found out about the lawsuit - too late.. Maytag never notified me - a registered user.. My question is (MayTag Canada did not want to give me the info) Which Motor and part number is covered under the 10 year warranty?? I purchased my unit in April 2000. Repairman told me it would cost 475$ to repair the control board and motor - although expensive I okayed this but my neptune still didn't work and he told me it was not worth repairing that I would need another board behind the panel on top.. - He took back the pieces and left :-( As much as I hate Maytag for all the problems I have had with my 5 appliances all purchased in 2000 - I miss my Neptune:-( Thanks in advance for your help.
Next message Erica (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 2:50 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
My Maytag Neptune dryer does not heat up. Spins, but takes forever to dry the clothes. What can I check?
Next message Willie Moeller (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 3:14 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I have a MAH5500 purchased in 2000. It has worked great until last week. With a normal load, The drum is knocking against the side wall so hard the machine is going up on two feet and walking across the room. I have run the service mode wash and recieved an "PA" that all is OK. I have hooked up a meter to the unbalance line circuit and tossed the tub hard side to side hitting the left side wall and did not see the circuit open. I tested the top and bottom displacement switches and they both open. I removed the internal unbalance switch and had to hit it pretty hard to get it to open. Another thing I see is that the tub looks like it sags a few inches in the rear based on the way the front boot seal is wrinkling on the sides. My thought is that there is a problem with the rear struts or the unbalance sensor is not reacting to an unbalanced condition. Ideas, access to a full service manual, formal tests for the struts or unbalance switch, Thanks in advance for your advice.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 9:25 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Willie Moeller:
I really need the serial number on this one but I will see what I can do.

With a normal load, The drum is knocking against the side wall so hard the machine is going up on two feet and walking across the room. My thought is that there is a problem with the rear struts or the unbalance sensor is not reacting to an unbalanced condition.
I need to know some more about this. I call the inner basket the drum and the plastic outer tub the outer tub. The struts do nothing but hold the outer tub in place when it is jumping up and down. When did this start? Is the machine on a wooden floor? Now lets talk about what hits what. The tub is suspended by 2 springs, one on the left/one on the right. Are they installed correctly? See the label on the spring anchors. Is the brick counterweight installed properly on top? Does the outer tub hit the cabinet and where?
Go into the front and see if the basket is loose. Push it up and down, left and right. Does it hit the outer tub? Does it rock on the floor when you wiggle the cabinet?

Another thing I see is that the tub looks like it sags a few inches in the rear based on the way the front boot seal is wrinkling on the sides. This is normal and I see this alot.

If there is no computer error and the unit spins out then there is no electrical problem in the unbalance circuit.

A service manual will not help you with a bouncing machine. The manual only describes problems that an engineer thought you might have.
Post your reply.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 9:37 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Erica--
Is it gas or electric? Do you know anything about burners or electrical testing? If not, get a technician. If you do please post again with the complete model and serial numbers.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 9:54 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Dear Maria- MAH4000AWW, Serial # 62733993YU.

My question is (MayTag Canada did not want to give me the info) Which Motor and part number is covered under the 10 year warranty?? It does not matter because it is whatever motor that came with the unit. The part is covered but the labor is not.

Repairman told me it would cost 475$ to repair the control board and motor - although expensive I okayed this but my neptune still didn't work and he told me it was not worth repairing that I would need another board behind the panel on top.. - He took back the pieces and left
It sounds to me the repairman is not familiar with the Neptune unit. What on earth is wrong with it in the first place. Most of the normal failures are carried on this thread. I'll bet the unit will not do a high speed spin but everything else is OK. If so, Does the door lock light turn on? No you say, Then it is a bad WAX motor in the door lock that burned out the circuit in the machine control board located in the top console. Replacement cost is US199.99 for the board plus about $35 for the WAX motor and any taxes. Add labor and convert to CAN $ and $475 may be a reasonable CAN $ price.

Could you give me the City and Province you are in and maybe one of our members will know of a competent technician in your area.

Also, contact your Maytag dealer and see if they can order a Maytag MAH5500BWW to replace your unit. The remaining units in the Maytag warehouse in the States are selling out at US$649. These units have all of the upgrades.

Norm
Next message Maria Lipari (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 10:38 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi!! I am from Montreal QC. My washer was either in the spin cycle or right before when it made this loud sound and then died on me. It smelled very bad. When I pressed start it would make this loud crunching sound. Inside the washer had some water with a few baby clothes. The technician said the control board at the bottom had burnt and that it would cost me 475$ to replace the control board # 22002989, motor 12002039 & belt 12001788. Once he replaced these parts the machine would not start.. He told me he had to hold the start button down for it to go and this meant that the board in the top panel had to be replaced as well.. That's when he took everything and left :-( The damaged pieces were not put back in. When I spoke with Maytag Canada they told me the motor part above was not under warranty.. Yet everyone tells me the motor is.. Am I being given the run around by Maytag?? Thx again!!!
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 11:10 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
> It might be a broken spinner support. Remove the 3 baffles in the spin basketand see if one of the bolts under one of the baffels has broken off.
Next message Willie Moeller (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 11:24 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
MAH5500BWW 67769534ZF The drum feels solid and secure inside the tub and there is no slop if I try to lift the drum in the tub. The unit is on a concrete floor and the 4 feet are level with no wobble in the machine. The 2 springs are installed properly as is the brick. I just ran a small load cotton/sturdy normal soil. Washing was fine but with 31 minutes left it tried to spin up and bam-bam, bounce. Since I don't know exactly what the timing and functions are, I can't tell you what was happening. The cycle continued and at 8 minutes left we started thumping again. This time we never got up to full speed and bang - stop bang-stop till the end. I then got LR code. Next, I ran just spin on delicate. It worked fine. When it has hitting, I could hear it hit the top, the left side and the door was getting wacked also. I was able to shoot a digital movie but I need to cut/compress it to upload.
Next message dj (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2007 - 10:41 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
My Neptune washer won't go into high-speed spin, leaving the clothes soaking wet. The "Locked" light comes on, the drum spins back and forth for a bit, then gives up and the cycle ends. It degraded to this state gradually over a year or so. At first it would fail to spin only once in a while, then half the time, then not at all. Also, when it first started doing this, I could turn the knob back to "spin" and the high speed spin would always kick in the next time. That workaround became less and less reliable over time, and now almost never works.
Next message dj (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2007 - 10:43 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Now here is the strange thing. My current workaround, which I've been using for about 3 months now, and which works every time, is to turn the knob back to spin, and then lean the washer backwards a few degrees by tilting the front off the ground by a few inches. In anywhere from 10 to 30 seconds I can feel the high speed spin start to kick in and I can let it back down again. I am waaaaaay past tired of doing this, and the unit is heavy enough that this is not viable for my wife. Does anyone have a clue as to what might explain this odd behavior? I checked hoses and the drain pump for blockages and found none, and it drains just fine. I am guessing based on the fact that it spins when I lean it back that it's some sort of balancing issue.
Next message Brian Blackwell (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2007 - 1:17 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Just wanted to give an update to my earlier post(s). I replaced the motor and motor control board with the new upgrade kit, and my washer now spins out our clothes again! thanks for the Help!!!
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2007 - 11:34 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
dj-
sounds like you are overloading the machine. Other causes could be bad bearings, or a bad motor and controller.
Need exact Model and Serial to help further.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2007 - 11:39 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Willie Moeller--
It sounds like the spin basket assembly has a problem. It could have damaged the outer tub and bearings too. LR indicates a stuck motor. You will have to disassemble and examine the assembly. Purchase a seal kit for the unit and complete disassembly and assembly instructions are included.
Let me know what you find when you get it apart.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2007 - 12:07 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Dear Maria--
I am down here in the States and I would say to look at the instruction manual in the rear that has the guarantee information. If you do not have one Maytag can provide you one via phone or website.
It sounds like this service man took back his parts and left you hanging. I am sorry to hear this.
Did you read my last post about replacement? Can you get one up there?

cost me 475$ to replace the control board # 22002989, motor 12002039 & belt 12001788. Once he replaced these parts the machine would not start.. He told me he had to hold the start button down for it to go and this meant that the board in the top panel had to be replaced as well..

First of all the 22002989 is the machine control board in the top of the console. The 12002039 is the motor and the motor controller in a kit. The belt is the belt. Everything that you need except for the WAX motor in the lock was there. You probably did not need a new belt but I can't examine it and its gone so now I guess you need one. So $475 for all this is reasonable and everything installed should work. So either the machine board was defective or he missed a connection or something.

You can seek the aid of a local Maytag Authorized Parts Distributor in your area to help you get warranty on the motor, but some may require the old parts from you to prevent fraud. You will need a copy of your purchase receipt because your unit is not registered. This is the information I have.

No Matching Registration Found. Extended Warranty
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Defect - Description - - - - - - Labor - - Parts
MAYTAG---------------------------12 months 24 months
MAYTAG - CABINET OUTER CASE------12 months 120 months
MAYTAG - PANEL, OUTER DOOR/DRAWE-12 months 120 months
MAYTAG - PANEL, FRONT -----------12 months 120 months
MAYTAG - MOTOR, DRIVE -----------12 months 120 months
MAYTAG - TOP MAIN ---------------12 months 120 months
MAYTAG - FRAME/BASE/SIDE/LOWER --12 months 120 months
MAYTAG - INNER TUB/BASKET -------12 months Life Time
Next message dj (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2007 - 12:33 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Norman,

Thanks for your reply. The machine is not overloaded. It behaves the same regardless of the size or content of the load. I apologize for not posting the model#, I need to double check when I get home. I'm fairly sure it begins with MAH5000??? but can't recall the last 3 letters off the top of my head.
Next message Willie Moeller (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2007 - 1:21 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Thanks for the info. If you could point me towards an online service manual or disassembly instructions I can save my part purchases until we find what is going on. Is there a .pdf for me in cyberspace?
Next message maria lipari (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2007 - 1:42 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi, Thx for replying - I have been on the phone again with Maytag.. I understand better now the parts - someone was finally helpful in their parts dept... The control board was not included in the price of 475$$. Maytag wasn't covering the motor because the technician is saying that the board attached to the motor is burnt and in the process also blew the control board on top.. They will now cover the motor but refuse to cover the other parts that were affected. By the way - when we repair we are only given a 3 month warranty.. and the tech they sent me will get a report from the consumer board. If it weren't for my persistence I would have trashed the machine as he recommended!! I do still have the old parts and a receipt - so if I understand correctly I can go get these parts myself and ask Maytag to send me a different repairman??
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2007 - 9:35 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
> Brian, Thanks for the update.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2007 - 10:26 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Maria--
Just a reminder that I forgot to mention something.

When the motor board is bad or not hooked up properly, the control board will shut off the machine.

I suspect that there may be nothing wrong with your board. A different repairman with a motor kit might just get the machine working properly. Trying the motor only again with another guy might save you $200.

Good Luck--Norm
Please post the results if you please.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2007 - 10:35 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Willie--

There is no PDF available. You may purchase a manual through the Maytag parts department or your authorized distributor.

The instructions that you need are in the seal kit which is necessary to reassemble the drum into the tub if nothing was found.

Disassembly is a hard job for a novice on this unit. I suspect that there is a problem with the spindle that holds the drum on, or loose bearings in the outer tub that is throwing the basket into an eliptical orbit. A trained tech with experience on this can make that determination.

Since this type of failure was not supposed to happen, it is not mentioned in the manual.

Good Luck
Norm
Next message dj (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2007 - 11:22 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
A couple things I left out of my earlier post. The washer is about 6 1/2 years old, and the model number is MAH4000AWW.
Next message Maria Lipari (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Wednesday, May 02, 2007 - 11:58 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi, Funny you mention that - I have questioned the repairman's diagnostics since he left my house April 10.. Yeah I have been without a washer for almost 4 weeks :-( I will keep you posted as to what really gets repaired if we repair it - all depends on what my formal letter of complaint to the consumer board, maytag and the repair company will result in.. Thank You so much for all your help - you helped me in persisting with Maytag that my motor is in fact under warranty!!!
Next message Maria Lipari (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Thursday, May 03, 2007 - 12:04 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi, Funny you mention that - I have questioned the repairman's diagnostics since he left my house April 10.. Yeah I have been without a washer for almost 4 weeks :-( I will keep you posted as to what really gets repaired if we repair it - all depends on what my formal letter of complaint to the consumer board, maytag and the repair company will result in.. Thank You so much for all your help - you helped me in persisting with Maytag that my motor is in fact under warranty!!!
Next message Willie Moeller (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, May 03, 2007 - 2:00 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I ran an empty load and went to service mode once the wash started. I could see the rpm on the display. What can you tell me about the motion programs run. Most of the spins had a very long ramp up to speed. Near the end of the cycle we were at about 1000 rpm? and then the display showed 00 as the motor coasted down without power. There was then an attempt to go from basket dead stop to very fast with little to no ramp up. If there had been a load in the drum I could see this causing the issue I have been seeing. How does the rpm of the motor get to the controller is there feedback and what happens if it looses this signal? Is the motor run in an open or closed control loop? Thanks for the advice!
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Thursday, May 03, 2007 - 9:13 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Willie Moeller---

All I can explain to you is the ramp up and down are all controlled. When you see 00 in the display it is not coasting. The speed is lowered to zero before power is removed. The direction of travel, ramp time, and end speed are all controlled by the machine control board. Current limiting in on the motor control.
According to Maytag the ramp is 1 RPM per revolution. Top speed is 800. This can vary due to the motor board but 800 is the target. The tachometer in the motor closes the loop.

showed 00 as the motor coasted down without power.
You might have thought there was no power but it is a driven slowdown and stop. Pulling the plug at high speed can damage the board because it was not designed to relieve the residual stored energy of the motor.

The only thing I can say to you is that your unit may have the old style motor and drive. The new motor/controller conversion kit would correct any motor issue. Look at the motor for me please. Is it solid round with white plastic on the back where a 3 pin plug is. Or does it look wierd like a motor you can see the coils on. Coils on is the newer style.

No matter what the ramp is it should not bang the basket into the tup or front cover and the whole tub should not bang against the cabinet. This version of Neptune had all of the upgrades except the motor which started in series 68 I think. You are series 67.

The motor is free (10 year warranty) if it is the old one. Call up Maytag and see if they will send you a new kit for free (proof of purchase may be required). Put it in and try it out. Instructions are in the box.

Norm
Next message Leia Elliott (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, May 03, 2007 - 3:25 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
*** Help! (Maytag Neptune washer model# MAH5500BWQ) ***
Hello! :-) I was so happy to see this forum! We have a Maytag Neptune washer model# MAH5500BWQ which has been great for nearly 3 years (bought June 2004). Sometimes when doing a load of laundry it will knock around and make loud noises on the spin cycle. The most recent time this happened, one of my teenaged sons had put all of his sheets and mattress pad in and it sounded so bad we didn't even recognize what was happening at first. We stopped it as soon as we realized it was the washer, and readjusted the clothes (the mattress pad had turned the wrong way and was full of excess water). It didn't make any more noise when we restarted it, but when we took the laundry out they were extra damp and didn't seem clean all the way. I did another load the next day and it didn't seem very clean...
***continued***
Next message Leia Elliott (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, May 03, 2007 - 3:29 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
*** Help! (Maytag Neptune washer model# MAH5500BWQ)- continued***

As I was putting the clothes in the dryer I found a chunk of gray plastic.... so I looked in the washer to see if maybe my younger son had put a toy or something in with the clothes. To my astonishment, there were SEVERAL chunks of gray plastic broken off the outer plastic part of the tub AND a HOLE in the door of the washer about 6" x 3"!!

I tried just the spin cycle to see if it worked and couldn't tell, so I put a penny in there to see if I could hear it moving around and it took a while but eventually started to move.... it never got very fast, though. You could hear "sliiiiide, thump, sliiiiide, thump, sliiiiide, thump" as the penny slid around the stainless steel basket and then went over the plastic "bumps" along the sides.
***continued***
Next message Leia Elliott (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, May 03, 2007 - 3:38 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
*** Help! (Maytag Neptune washer model# MAH5500BWQ)- continued***

My understanding is that if it were working properly, eventually centrifugal force would keep the penny at the side in one place or at least the slides and thumps would get faster.

***continued***
Next message Leia Elliott (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, May 03, 2007 - 3:46 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
*** Help! (Maytag Neptune washer model# MAH5500BWQ)- continued***
I have a service call in for someone to come as soon as possible which will be next Tuesday (this is Thursday) for $59 just to look and tell us if they can fix it! (We have 4 kids and I need my washer!!) If it is going to cost too much to fix it, I am thinking we should just buy a new washer..... does anyone know approximately how much it would cost to repair something like this and if it's near the price of a new washer.... what would you recommend we buy?? (We already have the riser and dryer to match.) We bought this for the long term money we would save & "Maytag quality". I thought we had made a great investment ...now I am thinking maybe we made a mistake! Help! Any advice will be much appreciated!! Thank you...

Sincerely,
Leia Elliott

*** End of post ***
Next message Scott F   posted on Thursday, May 03, 2007 - 6:35 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
What is wrong with the machine, meaning, what will it do or not do ?
Next message Willie Moeller (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, May 03, 2007 - 8:05 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
I did some more tests today. I started in service mode and ran the "quick spin" test. I heard the basket spin up quickly then stop. There was no change in the RPM display. It did this same routine many times. Never running for more than two seconds-ish. I canceled out of the test and took a look at the P2 connector on the machine control board. I removed and reseated the connector and went back to the "quick spin test" This time the test worked as outlined in the service manual. ( I googled for "MAH5500 service manual" and found the PDF.) I ran the QST a few more times and then went to a short wash with no load. --continued--
Next message Willie Moeller (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, May 03, 2007 - 8:08 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
--Continued-- 2/3 through the cycle the machine started with the same zoom-stop sounds it was doing when the QST would not work. I just popped over to service mode to see what the RPM was showing and there was 00 displayed even though the motor was going zoom-stop. I let the cycle continue as I worked to remove the back cover. As I removed the last screw the display started showing the RPM again and the motor stopped hunting. From what I saw today I am pretty sure I am losing the tach signal. Tomorrow I will get into the lower section and look at those connections. Could this issue be a warranty issue? Oh, there was no banging today as the machine was empty.
Thanks Again.
Next message Leia Elliott (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Thursday, May 03, 2007 - 11:04 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Scott F. ~
Hey, were you asking me? If not, please ignore! ;-)

The washer doesn't seem to spin properly any more. Also there are the issues of the broken plastic and hole in the door... If we replaced the door and plastic rim of the tub do you think that might fix it? (Someone local is selling a broken Neptune for $50 for parts.... cheaper than a service call!) Thanks!
Sincerely,
Leia E.

Help! (Maytag Neptune washer model# MAH5500BWQ)-
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Thursday, May 03, 2007 - 11:55 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Willie:
Motor has a 10 year warranty on the part. The boards only have 5 years.
Your unit is not registered so you must have the proof of purchase.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Friday, May 04, 2007 - 12:07 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Leia-
The material that your son put in the machine probably was too stiff to be washed in this machine. If you replace the damaged parts with the junker's you might save some money... BUT,
the junker might have the old style parts that would not exactly interchange with yours. Example: One of the door upgrades the 5500 has is the vent at the bottom and air holes at the top.
So I would only use the junk parts if they are an exact match.
I have changed many door liners that needed replacement for the same reason. There are other components attached to the liner so it is not a slam-dunk job. You need some tools and mechanical knowhow.
I don't understand what the dark grey plastic is though or where it came from. The plastic rim of the tub. Could you possibly mean the plastic collar around the stainless steel inner basket?
As far as the unit not spinning... he could have damaged the motor or controller. You did not provide the serial number so I can't tell if you have an old or new style motor. Read some of my posts in this thread to see what the difference is.

Norm
Next message Leia Elliott (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Friday, May 04, 2007 - 4:26 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Norm ~
Thank you for your response! The mattress pad was not stiff, but I think when it turned inside out and trapped excess water it became too heavy. The gray plastic is indeed the collar around the inner stainless steel basket. Our serial # is: A9053706EG
Thank you so much!!

~ Leia

- Help!(Maytag Neptune washer model# MAH5500BWQ)-
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 2:15 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Leia-
The collar around the basket is actually a balance ring with some glycol, water, and mineral water that you hear sloshing around when you move the drum.

Whether to replace it or not is the question. I would look at it and determine if clothes can get hung up on the edges and catch. It could tear them up. Or, you can bevel the edge like a ramp so the clothes will not be caught. You may have to increase the gap for this.

If it does need to be replaced you have a big big cost. And it is not the job for a novice to do. (see previous postings in this and other Neptune threads).

You know, the limit of wet items in the basket cannot exceed the top of the small ring in the center. You can pause the machine after it fills and agitates a bit and open the door and look. If the level of the stuff is over the top of the circle it is overfull. Large items like a matress pad, sleeping bag, carpet, etc., may not be suited for a home machine and probably should be done in a Big Boy at the Laundromat.
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 2:43 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Leia--
I forgot... Your unit should have the newer style motor.

The basket (PART WARRANTY ONLY) that is damaged may be replaced to you free of charge. There is still labor and a seal kit plus your damaged door parts. (The spinner is about $115 plus tax and shipping.)

Here is the warranty info on your machine.
No Matching Registration Found. Extended Warranty
------------------------------------------------------------------
Defect - - -Description - - - - - - - - - - - - - Labor - - - Parts
MAYTAG - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -12 months 24 months
MAYTAG - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -12 months 12 months
MAYTAG - CABINET OUTER CASE- - - - - - 12 months 120 months
MAYTAG - CABINET OUTER CASE- - - - - - 12 months 60 months
MAYTAG - TRANSMISSION - - - - - - - - - - 12 months 12 months
MAYTAG - LIGHT BULB
MAYTAG - MOTOR, DRIVE- - - - - - - - - - -12 months 120 months
MAYTAG - MOTOR, DRIVE- - - - - - - - - - -12 months 60 months
MAYTAG - TOP MAIN- - - - - - - - - - - - - - 12 months 120 months
MAYTAG - TOP MAIN- - - - - - - - - - - - - - 12 months 60 months
MAYTAG - ELECTRONIC CONTROL BOAR- 12 months 60 months
MAYTAG - FRAME/BASE/SIDE/LOWER - - -12 months 120 months
MAYTAG - FRAME/BASE/SIDE/LOWER- - - 12 months 60 months
MAYTAG - INNER TUB/BASKET- - - - - - - -12 months Life Time
MAYTAG - TOUCH PAD - - - - - - - - - - - - 12 months 60 months

Your owners' manual has whether you have the 5 year or 10 year protection. You must use that book.
Next message Leia Elliott (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Saturday, May 05, 2007 - 6:00 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Norm ~

You have been a big help! Thanks so much!!

~ Leia E.
Next message Willie Moeller (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, May 06, 2007 - 12:58 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
MAH5500BWW 67769534ZF ** I verified many times over the past days that the machine is loosing the RPM info intermittently. I have checked all connections and wires.
On the LED washer control board I checked for the 24vdc for the Motor control tach between pins P2(1) and P2(3). I am only reading 13vdc with the P2 connector removed or in place. I checked the 24vdc on the Unbalance circuit to verify there was 24vdc on the board and it was fine. Am I missing anything in these tests or does it look like I will need a new washer control board.?
Thanks for all your time and advice.
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Sunday, May 06, 2007 - 8:37 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Willie;
Run this test posted above. http://servicetechhelp.com/cgi-bin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=2801&post=114564#POST114564
MAH5500BWW 67769534ZF you will end up needing the motor/controler kit. Your loosing a phase on the motor.
Next message Willie Moeller (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Sunday, May 06, 2007 - 5:26 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
OK, I can do the phase test but I am also wondering why the loss of tach information = phase loss. More information would help me understand.
I am still curious as to the 24VDC source for the tach circuit. As shown in the service manual I should be seeing 24vdc across the P2(1) and P2(3) pins. Is there any conditions in which I should set the machine for testing or is the 24vdc just there if the 120vac is pluged in? If anyone has ever tested the 24vdc across P2(1)and P2(3) I am wondering what was seen.
Thanks
Next message Tom Ball (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Sunday, May 06, 2007 - 6:27 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
My MAH3000AWW, SN 33124707UY, was damaged during a storm, & I'm trying to figure what/how much was hurt. It will spin, but won't run in wash/rinse unless I hold down the start button, & the 'door locked' light won't activate. I get 120 VAC both (i) between the power neutral (White Wire 13) & the Machine Control (BW 27) only when pressing both the door switch button & start button; and (ii) between the WW 13 & the Machine Control (red wire 28 on conn. P1) only when pressing both the door switch button & start button. Is the Machine Board fried? I don't see visible damage to it, the wiring, or the Motor Control board, & the Motor board's fuse looks OK. The Drive System Phase Loss test was normal. I haven't run other diagnostics, but do you think the damage probably is limited to the Machine board? Does this use the 22002988 board, and would all current factory boards be the latest version?
Next message maria lipari (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Monday, May 14, 2007 - 4:38 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hi Norman, I finally got my neptune washer repaired - thx to all your help - I persisted with MayTag and got it fixed. A new repair company came out and replaced the motor, belt and control board on top!! I ended up paying 370$ instead of the big 750$!! The motor he put in was different than the original - repairman said it was a newer model... I am finally doing a load of clothes after 6 weeks!! You have no idea how much you have helped - very much appreciated!! !
Next message Damon (Unregistered Guest)    posted on Monday, May 14, 2007 - 9:08 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
OK,
I went ahead and replaced the controller board with part # 22002989 and replaced the wax motor with part # 12002535.

It still leaks (which I knew it would) but now it doesn't spin or drain. I got the parts for $162 new so I thought it might be worth a shot. Now I guess I need to look at replacing the drain pump next.

I read in here where it won't spin if it won't drain so after replacing the drain pump it should start spinning shouldn't it?
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Tuesday, May 15, 2007 - 10:06 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Damon:
Re check the connections at the controller board. If it still is not functioning then the motor controller is disconnected and/or fried. The motor board is in the bottom of the unit. If it got wet then it may have fried.
Remove the board by unscrewing the 2 hex head screws at the front and slide it out. Examine the fuse. If the fuse is blown or anything is fried (black or burnt) on the board then you will have to replace it with a motor conversion kit. Pt# 12002039. The drain pump is turned on and off by this unit too!
By the way, Is the leak in the rear by the flywheel or is in the front by the boot. The flywheel leak is very bad.
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Tuesday, May 15, 2007 - 11:25 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
The motor control board does not run the drain pump.
Next message shane   posted on Thursday, June 07, 2007 - 12:31 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Wow this thread has gotten long with multiple products, i guess one more post from me won't hurt...

To answer the last poster Bob cedroni your motor control board subs to a motor conversion kit listed at this sight
http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=949491
Next message Norman Hochfeld   posted on Thursday, June 07, 2007 - 9:43 am Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Shane--

Maytag Neptune has surely sprouted out. Maybe we need to split the thread. MAH 3000 to 7500 are the same machine. Rename the thread MAH3000 to 7500. Another MHW2000 is the stacker version.
MAH 8600 is the TL (Top Load Wierd Unit). and above is the Samsung Neptunes.
Next message John (Unregistered Guest)   posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2007 - 10:10 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
Hey, I have a Maytag/Atlantis Mav6300aww and am having a hard time figuring out how to replace the motor plastic pulley since I replaced the uneven worn belt yesterday, came home and realized that the plastic pulley had broke in half. Question is do I have to replace the whole motor, or can I just buy the pulley and replace and how to get it off? Also the belt has been replaced 3 times in two years, is that normal? Please help!
Next message Roy Murray   posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2007 - 10:31 pm Edit Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)
> John: 12002815 pulley kit includes 2 different pulleys and the instructions for which to use and how to install.
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